Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Winter Outlook: What Should Gardeners do to Prepare and Closing Gardens

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Winter Outlook: What Should Gardeners do to Prepare and Closing Gardens

by Jeff Bentley on Mar 15 2019
Winterizing Garden       As summer blossoms fade and the days become shorter, that means it’s time for gardeners to start preparing for the inevitable—WINTER. Depending on your point of view, and where you reside, you may or may not like the Farmers’ Almanac’s winter forecast for the U.S.: It may be cold and wet for much of the country, except in California and it’s neighboring states. Apparently, those of us who inhabit the area between the Great Lakes and the Northeast should prepare for “snowier-than-normal conditions.” (Editor’s note: UGH.) So, what to do to prepare for winter—both in order to ensure the survival of your perennials, as well as the health of the soil in the garden beds to get a running start in spring when the time comes to sow new plants—and when? For vegetable gardeners, we know it’s hard to think about winter while you’re still in the midst of dealing with your late summer harvest, but it’s a good idea to get a leg up on winter preparation before the weather turns. For example, now is the time to to clean up your vegetable beds, removing dead plants that will be a overwintering magnet for disease and insect pests. Add these dead plants to your compost pile, if you have the room. (Note: never add diseased or insect-plagued plants to your compost pile; dispose of them in the trash.) Some plants can remain: kale, cabbage, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower and radishes, vegetables in the brassica family that release cyanide compounds in early spring, killing off insect pests. And, speaking of compost, your soil will benefit from the addition of mature compost at this point, topped with a layer of fresh mulch in the form of shredded wood chips, straw or hay to protect it . Wait to apply mulch until it gets fairly cold outside, ensuring that unwanted critters, such as mice, have already found other cozy places to spend the winter. Kale Cabbage Broccoli Brussel Sprouts Cauliflower As for preparing your flower beds, once there has been a killing frost, pull up dead annuals and selectively cut back your perennials to 3”. Note that cutting these plants back too soon could compromise them by cutting off the foliage that feeds their roots. Leave the stalks of perennials with distinct seed heads intact, including black-eyed Susans, coneflowers, and sunflowers—they provide visual interest to your garden in the bleakness of winter, but more importantly, they provide essential food and sanctuary to birds and butterflies. Renew the mulch in your flower beds to maintain a 2-3 inch layer over the root system. Black Eyed Susan Purple Coneflower Sunflower Let’s face it. Most gardeners dread the end of summer and the gradual (or not, depending on where you live) onset of winter. We like to be outside planting and growing things; you can’t do that in winter—that is if you live in the northern half of the country. Still, winter does offer a silver lining to gardeners: really cold temperatures kill the insect pests that overwinter in the soil. While that may be all well and good, here’s hoping the Farmers’ Almanac winter forecast is wrong.
Help! My Lettuce is Bolting. What to Do?

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Help! My Lettuce is Bolting. What to Do?

by Jeff Bentley on Mar 15 2019
Newly minted (ha! Get it?) vegetable gardeners can be taken by surprise when their beautiful lettuce plants they’ve been enjoying since the beginning of the season start sending up flower stalks all of the sudden, and go to seed. When this happens, the heretofore sweet, tender lettuce leaves become tough and bitter, rendering them unpalatable. This is called bolting, which is very common for cool season leafy greens such as lettuce, arugula, cabbage, collard greens, kale, and spinach. Other plants prone to bolting include herbs such as basil, dill and cilantro, as well as broccoli and beets. Why do Plants Bolt? Normally, we regard plants’ flowering as a good thing, but not in the case of plants we enjoy for their nutritious green leaves. These plants flourish in the cool temperatures of late spring/early summer. But, the extended daylight hours and hot temperatures of mid-summer signal they’ve reached maturity and are nearing the end of their life, prompting them to reproduce by setting seed. What to do about Bolting? Bolting is a natural, inevitable process which can’t be prevented. However, there are ways to manage it, depending on the plant. For starters, you can plant seed varieties that are characterized as heat resistant or ‘slow bolt’; this may buy you some extra time. You can also grow lettuce in a partially shady area where it will stay relatively cool and delay bolting. Other plants demand different tactics. Basil, for example, loves sunny, hot and relatively dry conditions, which, of course, cause it to bolt, but you can deal with this by simply snipping off the flower buds as they appear. Regardless of flowering, tall, leggy basil plants are not desirable; keep them pinched back to keep them healthy. This is easy to do in the course of pinching/cutting off leaves for regular consumption in kitchen. Succession Planting to the Rescue In spite of your best efforts, don’t despair if all of your leafy greens end up setting seed. Just dig them up and plant new seeds for fall harvest. Given the speed with which lettuce and other leafy green seeds germinate, depending on where you live, you will be able to harvest a successive crop before the frost hits. Remember, these plants welcome cool early fall temperatures. One of the great things about gardening many people don’t appreciate until they start doing it is it’s an ongoing opportunity to learn about nature and the cycle of life. Similar to many gardening terms, “bolting” sounds vaguely daunting. As it turns out, it’s actually an apt word that describes a natural, logical process. For many of us, gardening is an infinitely more interesting way to learn than sitting in a classroom listening to a Biology lecture.
How to Grow Eggplants

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Eggplants

by Jeff Bentley on Mar 14 2019
Grow your own eggplant from seed and create delicious culinary favorites such as Eggplant Parmigiana. Our featured eggplant variety: Black Beauty About About Eggplants The mention of the word, eggplant, often brings to mind another word: parmesan. While eggplant parmesan is a world famously delicious dish, some people may not appreciate how eggplant makes a savoury addition to a plethora of other culinary delights. Eggplant can be sauteed, simmered, fried, and baked along with any number of other ingredients to make a nutritious, hearty vegetarian meal that may satisfy even the most committed carnivores. Interesting Facts Interesting Facts About Eggplants Eggplant or Aubergine—Solanum melongena—is a member of the huge Solanaceae family, containing more than 2000 species of plants. Some plants in this family—belladonna, for example—are quite poisonous! Similar to a plant like tomatoes, eggplants aren’t technically vegetables—they’re fruits. They are also known as a member of the nightshade family, which also includes peppers, potatoes, and tomatoes. Nightshade vegetables seem to be generating controversy in health and nutrition circles these days: while it’s acknowledged that they are relatively low in calories, high in fiber, and contain a number of important nutrients, they also contain a substance called sonanine which is thought to cause inflammation in the body. A quick bit of research suggests the jury is still out on this issue. Anyone with questions or concerns should consult a medical professional. Eggplant is native to India and environs, where it is considered the ‘King of Vegetables’, but is now found throughout the world. English colonists in India named it eggplant due to varieties’ egg-like appearance. These days, you can find all different types of eggplant at farmers markets, etc., though we remain partial to our tender, prolific class Black Beauty variety. Gardening Tips Eggplant Gardening Tips Difficulty Moderate-Difficult. Sun Full sun. Water Eggplant are heavy drinkers and feeders. Regular gentle watering is key but be careful not to wash seedlings away. Soil Deep, well-drained sandy soil with a pH of 6.5-6.8. The soil temperature must be at least 70° F; ideal germination temperature is 85° F. Air Outdoor temperatures must be at least 65° F. Timing Start eggplant seeds indoors 8-12 weeks before your last anticipated spring frost; transplant seedlings outdoors once it’s consistently warm outside. Planting Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep. Space according to seed packet instructions. When transplanting outdoors in spring, raised beds, with their warmer soil, are preferable. Germination Soak seeds overnight to encourage germination which takes 7-14 days. Time to Harvest 70-90 days from time of transplant. Feeding Apply organic fertilizer to the seedlings after their true leaves appear. Add rich compost or additional organic fertilizer every six weeks thereafter. Mulch Add mulch as the seedlings develop to retain moisture and warmth and discourage weeds. Special Considerations Eggplant plants are susceptible to a variety of insect pests and diseases, unfortunately. You can mitigate the threat of insect pests by using row covers. Rotate crops regularly and make sure plants have plenty of air circulation to avoid disease. Companion Plants Good companion plants are legumes such as peas and beans which leach nitrogen into the soil which is needed by the eggplant plants. Bush beans and herbs repel common insect pests. Other members of the nightshade family such as tomatoes and peppers work well too. Container-Friendly Yes, if you have a pot with at least a 5-gallon capacity. Harvesting Harvesting Eggplants You can harvest eggplant when it’s a bit bigger than your (adult-size) hand) and when its skin has a nice reflective shine. Be careful when pulling off the fruit as there may be some sharp thorns on the stem or on the top of the plant. Highlights Growing Eggplants—Highlights Distinctive-looking eggplant is a great complement to your other garden vegetables. Our popular, heirloom seed variety—Black Beauty—yields a high volume of large, tender, tasty fruit. Densely-textured and filling, eggplant is a satisfying meat substitute. Heat loving and slow growing; eggplant needs a long, hot growing season. Eggplant is nutritious and is a good source of vitamin C, vitamin K, vitamin B6, and various important minerals such as magnesium, potassium, and folic acid. It’s also a great source of dietary fiber. Our Eggplant Variety Eggplant - Black Beauty Seed From 1.79 Resource Categories Recipes (11) Uncategorized (1) Growing Guides (6) Growing Vegetables (22) Growing Herbs (9) Growing Flowers (5) Garden Design & Maintenance (18) Garden Pests & Diseases (4) Pollinator Gardens (7) Eco-Friendly Garden (12) Start Gardening (9) Great Gifts for Gardeners (3) Home Gardener Vegetable Seed Packets Herb Seed Packets Flower Seed Packets Gardener Accessories Pollinator Seed Packets Milkweed Packets for Monarch Butterflies Sunflower Seed Packets Seed Packets Sets and Gifts Perennial Flower Seeds Annual Flower Seeds Peppers Cold Crop Seeds Packets New Special Occasion Seeds Packets Pollinator / Environmental Seed Packets Earth Day Seed Packets Thank You Seed Packet Cards Milkweed Packets for Monarch Butterflies Love/Valentine Seed Packets Baby Shower Seed Packets Memorial or Funeral Seed Packets Congratulations Seed Packets Thinking of You Birthday Seed Packets Wedding Seed Packets Seed Packets for Small Business Seasonal / Holiday Seed packets & Gifts Christmas & Holiday Gifts Grow Good Things Novelty & Gift Seed Packets New! Seed Packet Cards Real Estate Seed Packets All Favor Seed Packets Custom Packets Custom Seed Packets: Seasonal Custom Seed Packets: Memorial Custom Seed Packets: Weddings Custom Seed Packets: Baby Showers Custom Seed Packets: Thank You Custom Seed Packets: Novelty, Gift & Religious Custom Seed Packets: Environment Custom Seed Packets: Realtors Custom Seed Packets: Corporate Full Custom Art Seed Packets: 50-500 Qty Bulk Bulk Vegetable Seed Bulk Herb Seed Bulk Flower Seed All Bulk Seed Bulk Seed on Sale Retail Wholesale All Retail Displays & Bulk Packets Retail Home Gardener Displays & Bulk Packets Special Occasion Favor Displays & Bulk packets 250 Piece Seed Packet Displays 500 Piece Seed Packet Displays 500 Packet Display Instructions Bulk Seed Packets Become a Wholesaler Sale Favor Packets on Sale All Sale Bulk Seed On Sale How to Garden Growing Vegetables Growing Herbs Growing Flowers Garden Design & Maintenance Garden Pests & Diseases Pollinator Gardens Eco-Friendly Garden Start Gardening Great Gifts for Gardeners Ingredients 9 cups peeled and chopped tomatoes (peel first, see below) 2 1/2 cups chopped green bell peppers 2 1/2 cups chopped white onion 4 medium jalapeños, chopped (substitute 2 of the jalapeños for 2 cayenne peppers for extra hot salsa) 8 large cloves garlic, chopped 6 teaspoons canning salt 1 cup white vinegar 1 (12 ounce) can tomato paste Instructions Remove tomato skins. Make an “X” in the bottom of the tomatoes, then place in boiling water for 60 seconds. Then, remove the tomatoes from the water and place directly into an ice bath. The skins should slip right off. Make the salsa. Place all of the ingredients in a large pot and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until thickened and cooked. Prepare cans to be sealed. Transfer the cooked salsa into clean, sterile jars leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Use a funnel for this. Wipe rims of jars and, then place lids on top. Process with a water bath. Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Your saucepan needs to be tall enough to have the water cover the jars by 2 inches.
How to Grow Cantaloupe

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Cantaloupe

by Jeff Bentley on Mar 14 2019
Our seed variety—Hale’s Best—is a 1923 Heirloom and is one of the best known, sweetest, and most productive of cantaloupe varieties. Our featured cantaloupe variety: Hale’s Best Seed About Cantaloupe: The Perfect Summer Snack Food While watermelon is considered by many to be the top quintessential summer fruit, it needs to move over and make room for cantaloupe. Sweet, juicy cantaloupe is similarly hydrating and serves as a welcome cooling snack on hot days. Cantaloupe is a delicious accompaniment and addition to a number of dishes and makes an excellent addition to smoothies and homemade salsas. Interesting Facts Interesting Facts About Cantaloupe Cantaloupe—Cucumis melo—is an annual fruit (considered a kind of berry) and a member of the Cucurbitaceae family. This huge flowering plant family includes gourds, squashes, pumpkins, and cucumbers, in addition to melons. Cantaloupes are actually a type of muskmelon, which also includes honeydew, and Crenshaw among others. They are called rockmelons in Australia, presumably due to their resemblance to…well, rocks. Muskmelons originated in Persia and were widely cultivated by ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and, later, by the Europeans. It is thought that cantaloupe was a favorite among the Italians who named it after a former papal seat in the 1700’s. Christopher Columbus introduced cantaloupe to the new world on his second voyage in 1493, where it was enthusiastically welcomed by natives of the caribbean islands where he landed. It became a commercial crop in the U.S. sometime around 1890. Gardening Tips Cantaloupe Gardening Tips Difficulty Moderate. Sun Full. Water Water regularly taking care to avoid wetting the foliage—using a soaker hose is best. Soil pH – 6.0-6.5. Soil temperature must be 75 – 95° F or seeds will not germinate! Air The warmer the better; cantaloupes cannot tolerate frost. Timing In the northern part of the country, sow seeds indoors around 4 weeks before the last frost. Planting Plant seeds ½” deep and take special care of roots when transplanting outside. Plant seedlings 24” apart. Consider using black plastic sheeting to warm soil. Germination 5-7 days Time to Harvest Cantaloupe takes around 85-120 days to grow from seed to ripe fruit. Feeding Cantaloupe plants are heavy feeders. Mulch Apply a thick layer of organic mulch (compost is ideal) as the vines start to creep. Pests & Diseases Keep a close eye out for common pests, such as squash bugs, squash vine borers, cucumber beetles, and aphids, which can be a problem. Healthy, well-tended plants may be able to fend off pests; otherwise, consider using row covers, taking care to allow access by pollinators. Special Considerations During growth, it’s not unusual for some melons to start to grow and die well before harvest. Companion Plants Corn, nasturtium, radish Container-Friendly Yes. Use a big pot (at least 5 gallon) and a strong support (like a trellis) that will allow you to train the vines to grow vertically. Harvesting Harvesting Cantaloupe You can tell when the fruit is ready to harvest when the rind has turned from green to tan, and the melon comes off the vine easily (test by applying gentle pressure). Or, if you have a good nose, try giving it a sniff. If it smells sweet and ripe, it should be ready. Highlights Growing Cantaloupes—Highlights Our seed variety—Hale’s Best—is a 1923 Heirloom and is one of the best known, sweetest, and most productive of cantaloupe varieties. Succulent, homegrown cantaloupe is in a different stratosphere of deliciousness compared to the supermarket version. If you love cantaloupe, grow your own—it’s worth the effort. Cantaloupe grows on vines which can trail up to five feet in the garden, unless you train them to grow vertically on a support. These are heat-loving, slow-growing plants. They need a long growing season of 16 weeks or so. Higher temperatures mean a shorter growing time. Cantaloupe is a good source of fiber, packed with vitamin C and other vital antioxidants. Our Cantaloupe Variety Cantaloupe-Hale's Best Seed From 1.79 Resource Categories Recipes (11) Uncategorized (1) Growing Guides (6) Growing Vegetables (22) Growing Herbs (9) Growing Flowers (5) Garden Design & Maintenance (18) Garden Pests & Diseases (4) Pollinator Gardens (7) Eco-Friendly Garden (12) Start Gardening (9) Great Gifts for Gardeners (3) Home Gardener Vegetable Seed Packets Herb Seed Packets Flower Seed Packets Gardener Accessories Pollinator Seed Packets Milkweed Packets for Monarch Butterflies Sunflower Seed Packets Seed Packets Sets and Gifts Perennial Flower Seeds Annual Flower Seeds Peppers Cold Crop Seeds Packets New Special Occasion Seeds Packets Pollinator / Environmental Seed Packets Earth Day Seed Packets Thank You Seed Packet Cards Milkweed Packets for Monarch Butterflies Love/Valentine Seed Packets Baby Shower Seed Packets Memorial or Funeral Seed Packets Congratulations Seed Packets Thinking of You Birthday Seed Packets Wedding Seed Packets Seed Packets for Small Business Seasonal / Holiday Seed packets & Gifts Christmas & Holiday Gifts Grow Good Things Novelty & Gift Seed Packets New! Seed Packet Cards Real Estate Seed Packets All Favor Seed Packets Custom Packets Custom Seed Packets: Seasonal Custom Seed Packets: Memorial Custom Seed Packets: Weddings Custom Seed Packets: Baby Showers Custom Seed Packets: Thank You Custom Seed Packets: Novelty, Gift & Religious Custom Seed Packets: Environment Custom Seed Packets: Realtors Custom Seed Packets: Corporate Full Custom Art Seed Packets: 50-500 Qty Bulk Bulk Vegetable Seed Bulk Herb Seed Bulk Flower Seed All Bulk Seed Bulk Seed on Sale Retail Wholesale All Retail Displays & Bulk Packets Retail Home Gardener Displays & Bulk Packets Special Occasion Favor Displays & Bulk packets 250 Piece Seed Packet Displays 500 Piece Seed Packet Displays 500 Packet Display Instructions Bulk Seed Packets Become a Wholesaler Sale Favor Packets on Sale All Sale Bulk Seed On Sale How to Garden Growing Vegetables Growing Herbs Growing Flowers Garden Design & Maintenance Garden Pests & Diseases Pollinator Gardens Eco-Friendly Garden Start Gardening Great Gifts for Gardeners Ingredients 9 cups peeled and chopped tomatoes (peel first, see below) 2 1/2 cups chopped green bell peppers 2 1/2 cups chopped white onion 4 medium jalapeños, chopped (substitute 2 of the jalapeños for 2 cayenne peppers for extra hot salsa) 8 large cloves garlic, chopped 6 teaspoons canning salt 1 cup white vinegar 1 (12 ounce) can tomato paste Instructions Remove tomato skins. Make an “X” in the bottom of the tomatoes, then place in boiling water for 60 seconds. Then, remove the tomatoes from the water and place directly into an ice bath. The skins should slip right off. Make the salsa. Place all of the ingredients in a large pot and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until thickened and cooked. Prepare cans to be sealed. Transfer the cooked salsa into clean, sterile jars leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Use a funnel for this. Wipe rims of jars and, then place lids on top. Process with a water bath. Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Your saucepan needs to be tall enough to have the water cover the jars by 2 inches.
Starting Plants Indoors From Seed

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Starting Plants Indoors From Seed

by Jeff Bentley on Jan 29 2019
Except perhaps for those who reside in the northernmost reaches of the country, gardeners welcome the New Year’s lengthening days in eager anticipation of the spring planting season. While spring doesn’t officially start until March 20 in the Northern Hemisphere, if you’re a gardener, it’s never too early to starting thinking about and planning your summer garden. And, even if it’s typically too cold in your area to realistically plant outdoors until late spring, you can always get a jumpstart on the growing season by starting plants indoors from seed. When to Start Vegetable Seeds Indoors? The best time to start summer plants indoors from seed depends on where you live and what you want to grow. You can sow most vegetable seeds indoors for summer harvest 4-8 eight weeks before your last anticipated frost. Indeed, if you live in a northerly planting zone, it may be necessary to do this with those vegetables that take a long time to mature, such as brussel sprouts. Starting plants from seed indoors is an easy way to extend your growing season. Indoor Growing Supplies Here are the supplies you may need to start: Bentley Seeds non-GMO, open-pollinated, high quality seeds Growing medium (special soil) Containers Seedling Heat Mat Grow Lights While you can purchase your seeds from us, you’ll need to get the other supplies from your local nursery or online retailer. Choose Your Plant Seeds Carefully First, decide what you’re going to grow. Don’t be starstruck by the beautiful four-color photos of model plants in gardening catalogs. You need to do your research beforehand, choosing appropriate plants for your situation to increase your chances of success. If you’re new to gardening, you don’t want to start with plants that are fussy, prone to pests and otherwise difficult to grow. Start with something relatively easy that will have a big payoff. Leafy greens, such as lettuce, arugula and Swiss chard are easy to grow and harvest before it gets too hot; certain varieties of tomatoes—cherry tomatoes, for example—and most herbs are also good bets. If you want to start with flowers, it’s hard to go wrong with most of our selections. Just don’t plant too much at once when starting out! Preparing The Seed Containers And Potting Mixture The seeds can be planted in almost any kind of container that’s at least 2-3 inches deep and has drainage holes. You can find special multi-seedling trays for this purpose or peat pots that can be planted directly into the ground when the time is right. Choose a fresh potting mixture especially formulated for seedlings—which won’t actually be soil, since seedlings do best in a sterile growing medium—and pre-moisten it in a bucket before filling the potting containers. All seedlings demand moist (not soaking wet) soil, so it’s helpful to moisten it beforehand. Pack the soil down before adding the seeds. Planting the Seed All Bentley Seeds seed packets provide instructions for how deep to plant the seeds—usually ¼-1” deep. You can do this by gently pressing them into the soil. Large seeds should be planted a little deeper than small seeds. You can plant 2-3 seeds per container just to be safe. And, some seeds are just so small, it’s hard to plant just one. After planting, gently add a little more water. Watering seeds and newly-germinated seedlings can be tricky, by the way, as a strong stream of water will either wash them away or drown them! You will want to invest in a mister or small watering can for this purpose. Seedlings Need Heat and Light Depending on where you live and the natural light in your house, you might be able to get away with starting seedlings indoors without using grow lights and heat mats, but that would be the exception and not the rule. To get a healthy start in life, new plants need a lot of light and warm soil. We provide recommendations regarding optimal air and soil temperatures in our vegetable Growing Guides. While the ambient average air temperature in most houses is adequate for most plants, they will reliably germinate only when the soil temperature is between 65° and 75° Fahrenheit. And, for most plants, the warmer it is, the sooner they will germinate. If it’s too cold, the seeds won’t germinate and may end up rotting in their pots. The easiest and most efficient way to increase the soil temperature to adequate levels is by using a heat mat. How to Thin Seedlings Inevitably, given the over-planting practice recommended above, you’ll probably end up with some crowded clumps of seedlings. Plants grow best when they have plenty of space and air around them. So, to ensure your plants’ success, you must thin out these crowded seedlings when the time is right. You can thin out the seedlings any time after their true leaves appear. These are not the leaves that first emerge upon germination—those are called cotyledons which serve to nourish the nascent seedlings. Rather, true leaves emerge a few weeks after germination and look like mature plant leaves. Thinning seedlings involves discarding “excess” plants to ensure that others thrive. Many budding gardeners tend to feel trepidation faced with this task for the first time. For starters, it just seems wrong to discard promising new plants. Also, given the delicate nature of the tiny seedlings, it’s hard to figure out how to discard some without harming the designated survivors. But, trust us (and all the other experts out there), thinning the seedlings is what’s best for your plants. It will help the remaining plants develop healthy root systems and grow into sturdy mature plants. And, it’s not hard to do. Just take some small sharp scissors (better than garden shears) and gently snip the excess plants off—right at the soil line. By the way, for certain edible plants, like arugula or nasturtium, you can use the discarded seedlings as a delicious addition to a salad or sandwich. Transplanting Seedlings to the Outdoor Garden Before too long, the time will come to transplant your seedlings outdoors in the garden. For most plants, this will be after the threat of frost has passed and the plants have three to four true leaves. First, though, you need to harden off the young plants. This involves setting the plants outdoors in a protected location, away from wind and direct sun, at first, a few hours a day. Gradually, over the course of two weeks or so, you can increase their exposure, readying them for planting in the ground. Even after hardening off, the seedlings remain fairly delicate so take some care planting them in the ground. Prepare the garden bed in advance by enriching the soil as we recommend in our Growing Guides make sure it’s well-moistened. To avoid the possibility of the sun drying out the plants, we recommend planting in the late afternoon or on a cloudy day. Use a knife or other small implement to gently loosen the soil from the edge of the pots and gently tip the pot upside down to release the intact contents into your hand. Then gently place the root ball into pre-dug holes in the garden bed, to which you’ve added some time-release organic fertilizer. If you’re using peat pots, you can plant them as is. Be sure not to plant the seedlings too deep; all leaves should be above ground. Fill in the gaps with soil and tamp it down. Gently add water after planting and cover the soil with mulch, taking care not to disturb the plants’ roots. And, then wait. If all goes well, you will have some nice, healthy plants that will bear delicious fruit in due time. A Few Hard & Fast Planting Tips As daunting as it may seem at first, starting plants from seeds indoors is not hard as long as you follow a few cardinal rules. Keeping the seeds/seedlings consistently moist, but NOT soaked, is one of them. Light, air temperature and soil temperature also play a big role, so be sure to give the plants what they need, as outlined in our Growing Guides. And, make sure you don’t plant the seeds too deep: pay close attention to the seed packet planting instructions. Like most things in life, after you’ve done this a few times, you’ll look back and wonder why you thought it was so intimidating. It’s actually a piece of cake. Except perhaps for those who reside in the northernmost reaches of the country, gardeners welcome the New Year’s lengthening days in eager anticipation of the spring planting season. While spring doesn’t officially start until March 20 in the Northern Hemisphere, if you’re a gardener, it’s never too early to starting thinking about and planning your summer garden. And, even if it’s typically too cold in your area to realistically plant outdoors until late spring, you can always get a jumpstart on the growing season by starting plants indoors from seed. When to Start Vegetable Seeds Indoors? The best time to start summer plants indoors from seed depends on where you live and what you want to grow. You can sow most vegetable seeds indoors for summer harvest 4-8 eight weeks before your last anticipated frost. Indeed, if you live in a northerly planting zone, it may be necessary to do this with those vegetables that take a long time to mature, such as brussel sprouts. Starting plants from seed indoors is an easy way to extend your growing season. Indoor Growing Supplies Here are the supplies you may need to start: Bentley Seeds non-GMO, open-pollinated, high quality seeds Growing medium (special soil) Containers Seedling Heat Mat Grow Lights While you can purchase your seeds from us, you’ll need to get the other supplies from your local nursery or online retailer. Choose Your Plant Seeds Carefully First, decide what you’re going to grow. Don’t be starstruck by the beautiful four-color photos of model plants in gardening catalogs. You need to do your research beforehand, choosing appropriate plants for your situation to increase your chances of success. If you’re new to gardening, you don’t want to start with plants that are fussy, prone to pests and otherwise difficult to grow. Start with something relatively easy that will have a big payoff. Leafy greens, such as lettuce, arugula and Swiss chard are easy to grow and harvest before it gets too hot; certain varieties of tomatoes—cherry tomatoes, for example—and most herbs are also good bets. If you want to start with flowers, it’s hard to go wrong with most of our selections. Just don’t plant too much at once when starting out! Preparing The Seed Containers And Potting Mixture The seeds can be planted in almost any kind of container that’s at least 2-3 inches deep and has drainage holes. You can find special multi-seedling trays for this purpose or peat pots that can be planted directly into the ground when the time is right. Choose a fresh potting mixture especially formulated for seedlings—which won’t actually be soil, since seedlings do best in a sterile growing medium—and pre-moisten it in a bucket before filling the potting containers. All seedlings demand moist (not soaking wet) soil, so it’s helpful to moisten it beforehand. Pack the soil down before adding the seeds. Planting the Seed All Bentley Seeds seed packets provide instructions for how deep to plant the seeds—usually ¼-1” deep. You can do this by gently pressing them into the soil. Large seeds should be planted a little deeper than small seeds. You can plant 2-3 seeds per container just to be safe. And, some seeds are just so small, it’s hard to plant just one. After planting, gently add a little more water. Watering seeds and newly-germinated seedlings can be tricky, by the way, as a strong stream of water will either wash them away or drown them! You will want to invest in a mister or small watering can for this purpose. Seedlings Need Heat and Light Depending on where you live and the natural light in your house, you might be able to get away with starting seedlings indoors without using grow lights and heat mats, but that would be the exception and not the rule. To get a healthy start in life, new plants need a lot of light and warm soil. We provide recommendations regarding optimal air and soil temperatures in our vegetable Growing Guides. While the ambient average air temperature in most houses is adequate for most plants, they will reliably germinate only when the soil temperature is between 65° and 75° Fahrenheit. And, for most plants, the warmer it is, the sooner they will germinate. If it’s too cold, the seeds won’t germinate and may end up rotting in their pots. The easiest and most efficient way to increase the soil temperature to adequate levels is by using a heat mat. How to Thin Seedlings Inevitably, given the over-planting practice recommended above, you’ll probably end up with some crowded clumps of seedlings. Plants grow best when they have plenty of space and air around them. So, to ensure your plants’ success, you must thin out these crowded seedlings when the time is right. You can thin out the seedlings any time after their true leaves appear. These are not the leaves that first emerge upon germination—those are called cotyledons which serve to nourish the nascent seedlings. Rather, true leaves emerge a few weeks after germination and look like mature plant leaves. Thinning seedlings involves discarding “excess” plants to ensure that others thrive. Many budding gardeners tend to feel trepidation faced with this task for the first time. For starters, it just seems wrong to discard promising new plants. Also, given the delicate nature of the tiny seedlings, it’s hard to figure out how to discard some without harming the designated survivors. But, trust us (and all the other experts out there), thinning the seedlings is what’s best for your plants. It will help the remaining plants develop healthy root systems and grow into sturdy mature plants. And, it’s not hard to do. Just take some small sharp scissors (better than garden shears) and gently snip the excess plants off—right at the soil line. By the way, for certain edible plants, like arugula or nasturtium, you can use the discarded seedlings as a delicious addition to a salad or sandwich. Transplanting Seedlings to the Outdoor Garden Before too long, the time will come to transplant your seedlings outdoors in the garden. For most plants, this will be after the threat of frost has passed and the plants have three to four true leaves. First, though, you need to harden off the young plants. This involves setting the plants outdoors in a protected location, away from wind and direct sun, at first, a few hours a day. Gradually, over the course of two weeks or so, you can increase their exposure, readying them for planting in the ground. Even after hardening off, the seedlings remain fairly delicate so take some care planting them in the ground. Prepare the garden bed in advance by enriching the soil as we recommend in our Growing Guides make sure it’s well-moistened. To avoid the possibility of the sun drying out the plants, we recommend planting in the late afternoon or on a cloudy day. Use a knife or other small implement to gently loosen the soil from the edge of the pots and gently tip the pot upside down to release the intact contents into your hand. Then gently place the root ball into pre-dug holes in the garden bed, to which you’ve added some time-release organic fertilizer. If you’re using peat pots, you can plant them as is. Be sure not to plant the seedlings too deep; all leaves should be above ground. Fill in the gaps with soil and tamp it down. Gently add water after planting and cover the soil with mulch, taking care not to disturb the plants’ roots. And, then wait. If all goes well, you will have some nice, healthy plants that will bear delicious fruit in due time. A Few Hard & Fast Planting Tips As daunting as it may seem at first, starting plants from seeds indoors is not hard as long as you follow a few cardinal rules. Keeping the seeds/seedlings consistently moist, but NOT soaked, is one of them. Light, air temperature and soil temperature also play a big role, so be sure to give the plants what they need, as outlined in our Growing Guides. And, make sure you don’t plant the seeds too deep: pay close attention to the seed packet planting instructions. Like most things in life, after you’ve done this a few times, you’ll look back and wonder why you thought it was so intimidating. It’s actually a piece of cake. Except perhaps for those who reside in the northernmost reaches of the country, gardeners welcome the New Year’s lengthening days in eager anticipation of the spring planting season. While spring doesn’t officially start until March 20 in the Northern Hemisphere, if you’re a gardener, it’s never too early to starting thinking about and planning your summer garden. And, even if it’s typically too cold in your area to realistically plant outdoors until late spring, you can always get a jumpstart on the growing season by starting plants indoors from seed. When to Start Vegetable Seeds Indoors? The best time to start summer plants indoors from seed depends on where you live and what you want to grow. You can sow most vegetable seeds indoors for summer harvest 4-8 eight weeks before your last anticipated frost. Indeed, if you live in a northerly planting zone, it may be necessary to do this with those vegetables that take a long time to mature, such as brussel sprouts. Starting plants from seed indoors is an easy way to extend your growing season. Indoor Growing Supplies Here are the supplies you may need to start: Bentley Seeds non-GMO, open-pollinated, high quality seeds Growing medium (special soil) Containers Seedling Heat Mat Grow Lights While you can purchase your seeds from us, you’ll need to get the other supplies from your local nursery or online retailer. Choose Your Plant Seeds Carefully First, decide what you’re going to grow. Don’t be starstruck by the beautiful four-color photos of model plants in gardening catalogs. You need to do your research beforehand, choosing appropriate plants for your situation to increase your chances of success. If you’re new to gardening, you don’t want to start with plants that are fussy, prone to pests and otherwise difficult to grow. Start with something relatively easy that will have a big payoff. Leafy greens, such as lettuce, arugula and Swiss chard are easy to grow and harvest before it gets too hot; certain varieties of tomatoes—cherry tomatoes, for example—and most herbs are also good bets. If you want to start with flowers, it’s hard to go wrong with most of our selections. Just don’t plant too much at once when starting out! Preparing The Seed Containers And Potting Mixture The seeds can be planted in almost any kind of container that’s at least 2-3 inches deep and has drainage holes. You can find special multi-seedling trays for this purpose or peat pots that can be planted directly into the ground when the time is right. Choose a fresh potting mixture especially formulated for seedlings—which won’t actually be soil, since seedlings do best in a sterile growing medium—and pre-moisten it in a bucket before filling the potting containers. All seedlings demand moist (not soaking wet) soil, so it’s helpful to moisten it beforehand. Pack the soil down before adding the seeds. Planting the Seed All Bentley Seeds seed packets provide instructions for how deep to plant the seeds—usually ¼-1” deep. You can do this by gently pressing them into the soil. Large seeds should be planted a little deeper than small seeds. You can plant 2-3 seeds per container just to be safe. And, some seeds are just so small, it’s hard to plant just one. After planting, gently add a little more water. Watering seeds and newly-germinated seedlings can be tricky, by the way, as a strong stream of water will either wash them away or drown them! You will want to invest in a mister or small watering can for this purpose. Seedlings Need Heat and Light Depending on where you live and the natural light in your house, you might be able to get away with starting seedlings indoors without using grow lights and heat mats, but that would be the exception and not the rule. To get a healthy start in life, new plants need a lot of light and warm soil. We provide recommendations regarding optimal air and soil temperatures in our vegetable Growing Guides. While the ambient average air temperature in most houses is adequate for most plants, they will reliably germinate only when the soil temperature is between 65° and 75° Fahrenheit. And, for most plants, the warmer it is, the sooner they will germinate. If it’s too cold, the seeds won’t germinate and may end up rotting in their pots. The easiest and most efficient way to increase the soil temperature to adequate levels is by using a heat mat. How to Thin Seedlings Inevitably, given the over-planting practice recommended above, you’ll probably end up with some crowded clumps of seedlings. Plants grow best when they have plenty of space and air around them. So, to ensure your plants’ success, you must thin out these crowded seedlings when the time is right. You can thin out the seedlings any time after their true leaves appear. These are not the leaves that first emerge upon germination—those are called cotyledons which serve to nourish the nascent seedlings. Rather, true leaves emerge a few weeks after germination and look like mature plant leaves. Thinning seedlings involves discarding “excess” plants to ensure that others thrive. Many budding gardeners tend to feel trepidation faced with this task for the first time. For starters, it just seems wrong to discard promising new plants. Also, given the delicate nature of the tiny seedlings, it’s hard to figure out how to discard some without harming the designated survivors. But, trust us (and all the other experts out there), thinning the seedlings is what’s best for your plants. It will help the remaining plants develop healthy root systems and grow into sturdy mature plants. And, it’s not hard to do. Just take some small sharp scissors (better than garden shears) and gently snip the excess plants off—right at the soil line. By the way, for certain edible plants, like arugula or nasturtium, you can use the discarded seedlings as a delicious addition to a salad or sandwich. Transplanting Seedlings to the Outdoor Garden Before too long, the time will come to transplant your seedlings outdoors in the garden. For most plants, this will be after the threat of frost has passed and the plants have three to four true leaves. First, though, you need to harden off the young plants. This involves setting the plants outdoors in a protected location, away from wind and direct sun, at first, a few hours a day. Gradually, over the course of two weeks or so, you can increase their exposure, readying them for planting in the ground. Even after hardening off, the seedlings remain fairly delicate so take some care planting them in the ground. Prepare the garden bed in advance by enriching the soil as we recommend in our Growing Guides make sure it’s well-moistened. To avoid the possibility of the sun drying out the plants, we recommend planting in the late afternoon or on a cloudy day. Use a knife or other small implement to gently loosen the soil from the edge of the pots and gently tip the pot upside down to release the intact contents into your hand. Then gently place the root ball into pre-dug holes in the garden bed, to which you’ve added some time-release organic fertilizer. If you’re using peat pots, you can plant them as is. Be sure not to plant the seedlings too deep; all leaves should be above ground. Fill in the gaps with soil and tamp it down. Gently add water after planting and cover the soil with mulch, taking care not to disturb the plants’ roots. And, then wait. If all goes well, you will have some nice, healthy plants that will bear delicious fruit in due time. A Few Hard & Fast Planting Tips As daunting as it may seem at first, starting plants from seeds indoors is not hard as long as you follow a few cardinal rules. Keeping the seeds/seedlings consistently moist, but NOT soaked, is one of them. Light, air temperature and soil temperature also play a big role, so be sure to give the plants what they need, as outlined in our Growing Guides. And, make sure you don’t plant the seeds too deep: pay close attention to the seed packet planting instructions. Like most things in life, after you’ve done this a few times, you’ll look back and wonder why you thought it was so intimidating. It’s actually a piece of cake.
Effective Weed Control in the Garden

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Effective Weed Control in the Garden

by Jeff Bentley on Jan 29 2019
Let’s face it, weeds don’t have a good reputation—with good reason. Though some of them are quite attractive, they generally don’t behave well, showing up uninvited, stealing resources from your specimen plants, and quickly taking over the garden. Experienced gardeners understand the importance of staying ahead of the weeds by taking measures to discourage them in the first place, and vigilantly eradicating them the moment they appear. And, make no mistake, in spite of your best efforts, the weeds will appear; they’re purpose-built to endure and multiply quickly. While there are many chemical herbicides on the market that promise to eliminate them instantly, we favor natural ways to kill weeds. Pulling up weeds manually and/or using natural weed killer are not only safer for you and the environment, they’re more effective in the long run. Unfortunately there is no magical formula or method—chemical or natural—to get rid of weeds permanently. And, while there’s no question weeding is hard work, and a task most of us would love to avoid, along with, say, vacuuming and raking leaves, if you ignore the problem, it only gets harder over time. You best bet is to follow the lead of other successful gardeners and stay ahead of the weeds once you’ve established (or reclaimed) your garden. There are a number of tools that can make the job easier and lead to success, including: High quality gardening gloves Shovel or spade Trowel Weeder Compost and peat moss Avoiding Weeds in New Garden Beds When first creating a garden bed, it’s critical that you remove pre-existing grass (lawn) and weeds first. For purposes of this discussion, we include grass in our definition of weeds, as it’s pervasive and will make every effort to infiltrate your garden beds. Dig Them Up There are several ways to eliminate existing plant growth where you’re locating your new garden bed. The first method, which is also the most straightforward, is to dig up sod and weeds with a shovel or a spade. The argument for this approach is that you’ll be able to plant your garden immediately. But, the downside is, of course, that it can be back-breaking work. And, when you remove sod or a large volume of established weeds, you are also removing topsoil and other organic material. This soil should be replaced by a mixture of soil, peat moss and compost—both to ensure the health of your prospective plants, as well as to raise the level of the garden bed to ensure proper water drainage. Please note that moist (not soaking wet) soil makes it easier to pull weeds. Use a Rototiller Another approach is to use a rototiller to break up existing plant growth, and then remove the remaining clumps of grass or weeds by hand. The main advantages here are that you retain more organic matter in the soil and can plant your garden immediately. The downside to using a rototiller is that by deeply disturbing the soil, it can disrupt the soil’s ecosystem, reducing soil quality over time, and encouraging the growth of other types of weeds. Rototilling also releases carbon from the soil into the atmosphere, which isn’t good for plants or people. Smother Them A third method for removing grass and weeds is to smother them with newspaper, cardboard, or plastic securely anchored to the earth. Covering the plants cuts off their light and raises soil temperature causing them to die. This requires advance planning as it can take many months to accomplish. For most regions of the country, you would probably want to do this in the fall to be ready for spring planting. The downside is that in addition to having to wait to plant, smothering unwanted plants can destroy other organisms too. Removing Weeds From an Existing Garden Bed If, on the other hand, rather than trying to remove weeds to prepare for a new garden, you’re faced with the challenge of renovating an existing garden overgrown with weeds, you will have to consider some additional tactics. The same principles outlined above apply: there is no magical solution; only hard work. And, herbicides are not the answer, especially in a bed where you’re trying to preserve the existing plants. First, if it’s a big garden (or gardens), start small, working to reclaim one area at time. It’s helpful to remove the larger weeds, including unwanted tree and shrub seedlings, first, so it’s easier to see what you’re working with. You can start weeding an established garden at any time, though it’s easiest when the plants are small in early spring, removing them before they’ve had an opportunity to set seed (and reproduce!). Don’t be afraid to dig up and transplant perennial flowers, as well as shrubs and trees you want to keep. As a side note, regular dividing of perennials is important to maintain their vigor. Hand Weeding Tips To pull up the weeds by hand, use a trowel or weeder (dandelion fork) to loosen and remove the entire weed, roots and all. Some weeds, like dandelions and thistles, for example, have tap roots that are challenging to remove intact because they extend deep into the soil. But don’t be tempted to cut corners and leave some of the plant behind; the roots will regenerate and the plant will return with a vengeance. Particularly invasive weeds should be disposed of in the trash, not in the compost or yard debris pile, or they will recolonize wherever you deposit them (or elsewhere in your yard with the help of your local birds). Contact your local university extension service for information on the invasives in your region. Other Non-Toxic Weed Killers If you’re trying to reclaim a large garden, the sheer volume of weeds may seem too overwhelming to remove by hand, so you may want to resort to other natural remedies. You can attack the weeds’ foliage with non-toxic substances which may cause the plant to die. This can be effective, in limited quantities, for annual weeds; perennial weeds are tougher to kill. And, be careful not to inadvertently spray adjacent specimen plants you’re trying to preserve. Here are some ideas: Pour boiling water on the plants you want to destroy. Pour salt water on the plants. Note, do not resort to this remedy on a large scale or it may render your garden uninhabitable for plants. DIY herbicide using vinegar. Put some regular household vinegar in a sprayer bottle and aim at the weeds. For best results, apply on warm, sunny days (over 80° F). High volume and concentrations of vinegar are not eco-friendly. Blowtorch or radiant heat weeders—particularly useful for getting at weeds between walkway pavers. DO NOT do this if you live in a dry region prone to wildfires. If all those methods fail or don’t seem practical, another approach is to transplant the specimen plants temporarily to another open garden bed or containers and cover the bed with plastic for a few months to smother the weeds en masse. Or, if you live out in the country, borrow a neighbor’s goat for a day. Goats LOVE weeds. Once the Weeds are Gone… You need to move FAST planting your intended flowers and crops. Otherwise, the weeds will soon take over (again). And, be sure to apply a thick (2-3 inches) layer of mulch which will deter new weeds from germinating. Be sure to re-apply mulch every year. Dealing with weeds is a never-ending challenge that can seem daunting to the uninitiated. However, once you do it for awhile, you may find that it’s surprisingly satisfying. Also, it’s a great way to spend time outdoors getting some exercise. You’ll be surprised how much you learn about nature hanging out in the garden.
Heirloom Seeds and Their Historical Significance

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Heirloom Seeds and Their Historical Significance

by Jeff Bentley on Jan 29 2019
It’s never too soon to start thinking about the spring planting season. Depending on the region of the country where you live, it may only be a matter of months before you can start growing vegetable plants indoors from seed for harvest next summer. In the meantime, it’s fun to plan what you’re going to grow by browsing your favorite seed company website (:-)) and learning which plants would be best for your purposes. In the course of your research, you’ll find many mentions of the term, “heirloom”, and may wonder what it— and its associated terms— mean and why they’re significant. Why should you plant heirloom vegetable varieties? What are, say, heirloom tomatoes? We have some answers. What are Heirloom Seeds? Heirloom seeds come from favorite, historic plant cultivars passed down among generations of communities or families. A defining characteristic of heirloom seeds is they are open-pollinated, which means the plants that produced them were pollinated by natural means. Natural pollination occurs via insects, birds, or wind out in the wild—not through human intervention in a lab. The resulting plants are genetically diverse, allowing adaptation to local climate and growing conditions over time. Heirloom Plants Versus Hybrid Plants At the opposite end of the spectrum from heirloom plants are hybrid plants. Hybrid plants were developed in response to the “Dust Bowl” drought in the mid-1930’s which destroyed much of the U.S. agricultural production at the time, forcing hundreds of farms out of business. The extended drought resulted in calamitous food shortages and much human suffering (as vividly captured in John Steinbeck’s epic, “The Grapes of Wrath”). Hybrid plants were developed by scientists to exponentially increase agricultural output and bolster the U.S. food supply. This carefully controlled cross-breeding produced plants that were not only more vigorous, faster growing, and disease resistant than their parents, resulting in higher yields, they were also more stress resistant which meant they were more likely to survive drought. Compared to heirloom vegetables, hybrids boast more uniform traits in terms of size and appearance and are very consistent from plant to plant over time. Hybrid plants also yield more and cost more. But heirlooms are more nutritious and taste better, among the desirable traits that caused them to be saved and passed down in the first place. To illustrate the difference between hybrid and heirloom vegetables, consider the ubiquitous supermarket tomato. This hybrid fruit was developed, principally, to look good and withstand the long journey from the warm regions where they’re grown to retail outlets across the country. However, these beautiful hybridized tomatoes don’t taste anything like the succulent, if imperfect-looking, heirloom tomatoes you grow yourself or buy at a local farmstand in summer. Heirloom Fruits and Vegetables: Living History Commonly accepted wisdom is that an heirloom plant variety is a cultivar developed before 1945 or so, when hybrid plants entered widespread circulation, around the end of World War II. And, as mentioned above, one of heirloom seeds’ defining characteristics is they were considered something of value, saved and passed down from generation to generation, hence the moniker, heirloom. Heirloom plant varieties not only represent an assortment of desirable traits including appearance, flavor, texture, and hardiness, many of them have interesting or unusual names (or even multiple names) and associated dates of origin. For example, the wildly popular and prolific Kentucky Wonder pole bean is a very old heirloom that seems to have originated the south during the 1850’s. It has also been known over the years as ‘Texas Pole,’ ‘American Sickle Pole,’ ‘Eastern Wonder,’ ‘Egg Harbor,’ to name a few. Heirloom seeds originated from different cultures all over the world, and there is evidence that some varieties have origins that date back thousands of years. For example, the heirloom romaine lettuce variety, Parris Island Cos is a descendent of romaine lettuce that appeared in Egyptian art from 300 B.C. Regardless of their origins, by choosing heirloom plant varieties, you know you’re going to be growing and enjoying something special—something generations before you deemed worthy of preserving. By growing heirloom vegetables from seed, you help preserve that heritage. So, even though next spring’s growing season may seem like a long way off, it’s never too soon to start planning your crops and preparing your garden.
Gardeners’ Guide to Getting Organized

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Gardeners’ Guide to Getting Organized

by Jeff Bentley on Jan 10 2019
Starting out as a new gardener can seem like a daunting prospect since there’s so much to learn and do. You can increase your chances of success by mapping out a plan and organizing yourself with essential garden tools, equipment, and planting material. The plan doesn’t need to be perfect or cast in stone! You can change direction as you go along. There are very few hard and fast rules in the garden, aside from ensuring your plants have adequate sunlight, water, and well-drained soil containing nutrients. Regardless of which plants you decide to grow, and how you design your garden, you’re going to need the following garden tools before you get started: Garden Trowel A trowel is among the garden hand tools veteran gardeners typically always keep within close reach. It functions as a mini-shovel and is indispensable for digging small holes for planting seeds or transplanting seedlings, digging up weeds, and more. Garden Weeder Similarly, experienced gardeners always have a weeder close at hand. A weeder is necessary for unearthing stubborn, deep tap-rooted weeds like dandelions and thistles. It’s also handy for digging out weeds growing between pavers and other tight spaces where a trowel won’t fit. Garden Shears Garden shears—also known as hand pruners, secateurs or snips—are available with different sized and shaped blades, offering specialized functionality. Bypass pruners are the most common and your safest bet, if you’re unsure what you need. These are useful for pruning dead foliage and branches, deadheading spent flowers, harvesting vegetables and fruit, as well as cutting flowers for bouquets. Garden Shovel Also commonly known as a garden spade, this is another indispensable tool for gardeners. A shovel is useful for myriad chores in the garden, including turning over the soil and digging holes. Purists will tell you there’s an important distinction between shovels and spades having to do with their geometry: ‘a spade is for digging and a shovel is for scooping.’ Most experienced gardeners with yards are likely to own both. Garden Kneeler While not as common as the tools described, a garden kneeler is definitely a useful item to have on hand. It’s particularly important if you have painful joints or want to avoid developing them (!) The reality is that gardeners spend a lot of time on their knees which quickly becomes uncomfortable on the bare ground. A kneeler provides welcome relief in the form of easy, portable cushioning. Of course, there are many more tools available to help with your garden chores, and, over time, you’re likely to amass a sizeable collection, but it would be difficult to proceed without the ones listed above. Since you’ll always want to keep these tools handy, you must figure out a) where you’re going to store them when they’re not in use, and b) the easiest way to carry them around to have them on hand as you work in the yard or garden. Essential Planting Materials Though it depends on where you live and what kind of soil you have, you’re going to require some form of fertilizer, compost, peat moss, and mulch to have on hand to use as necessary. If your soil quality is really poor—consisting of heavy clay, for example—you may also want to acquire some enriched soil from a commercial supplier. Garden Tool Storage When considering garden tool and planting materials storage, it’s important to devise a system where they’re kept together, so you don’t have to waste time searching in different places for the right tool. Obviously, racks or shelves in a garage or storage shed work well for this purpose. Otherwise, if you’re limited for space, you’ll have to get creative. Best Way to Tote Garden Tools Around the Yard Devising a system for storing and transporting your gardening tools and materials around the yard may seem obvious or trivial to some, we can’t stress enough how important it is. Keeping up with gardening chores is not likely to be as overwhelming when these indispensable items are within ready reach. Options for carrying your tools around the yard as you go about your tasks include using a bucket, a toolbelt, a backpack, or a special coat or vest with pockets. For carrying planting material and larger tools, you can use a wheelbarrow or wagon, or a commercial storage caddy made especially for that purpose. Garden Planning & Design Many new gardeners are focused on the aesthetics of their garden design. While this makes perfect sense, it’s important to focus on designing a garden that’s also easy to maintain. That’s why we recommend—especially when you’re first starting out—to design a rectangular-shaped garden so you can easily access your plants from both sides. Of course, it’s crucial that your garden be located in a sunny area that’s not low-lying so that it collects water. If we’ve said it once, we’ve said it a hundred times: with few exceptions, plants HATE to have their roots in standing water. Drowning your plants is a surefire way to kill them. You can create raised beds if soil drainage is an issue in your yard. If you’re totally new to gardening and are nervous about where/how to plant, you can always acquire a few big containers and start with them. There are many benefits to container gardening, with having more control over your plant growing environment at the top of the list. Container gardening allows you to start slowly and build on your experience. And, since containers are portable, you can place them in strategic spots around your home for maximum effect. Much of the foregoing advice may seem like common sense to some, that is the essence of gardening: developing insight, based on experience, into what works and what doesn’t. We suspect that many people who have tried gardening without success, claiming they don’t have a green thumb, actually failed because of a lack of common (for gardeners, that is) sense and organization. Hopefully, this article helps steer new gardeners in the right direction.
Do Bees Hibernate in Winter?

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Do Bees Hibernate in Winter?

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 21 2018
We spend a lot of time marveling at and sharing our knowledge about bees and other pollinators and stressing the importance of creating landscapes that can sustain them. But as days shorten and temperatures cool in most parts of the country, summer becomes an increasingly distant memory, perhaps begging the question: what happens to the pollinators during winter?
How to Grow Watermelon

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Watermelon

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
Watermelon is a joyful, quintessential sign of summer and a fun plant to grow from seed, but it begs the age-old question: is it a fruit or a vegetable? Our featured watermelon variety: Crimson Sweet Seed About Is Watermelon a Fruit or a Vegetable? The answer to the question depends on whom you ask. Botany experts will tell you that because a watermelon develops from the ovary of a flowering plant and contains seeds, it is the very definition of a fruit. Remember, by the way, that’s the same reason a tomato is a fruit and not a vegetable. But others—mostly chefs and the state of Oklahoma (which declared it its official vegetable in 2007)—stand firm that watermelon is a vegetable. Their argument is that since watermelon is harvested from the field in a similar fashion to squash and pumpkin, that makes it a vegetable. Dubious? So are we. But no matter; watermelon is delicious no matter how it’s classified. Oh, and one last tidbit regarding the fruit-vegetable debate: apparently a fruit can be a vegetable but a vegetable can’t be a fruit. Go figure. Interesting Facts Interesting Facts About Watermelon Plants Watermelon—Citrullus lanatus—is a member of the cucumber—Cucurbitaceae—family of which gourds are a member as well. If you’re familiar with watermelon’s growth habit, you’ll agree this makes sense, given that all the plants in the family grow on trailing vines. Over time, people have come up with various, creative ways to consume and use watermelon in addition to the tried and true method of just slicing and serving it. For example, some use it to create edible sculptures; others use it as a floating pool toy, and still others use it to make potent cocktails or a delicious summer punch. Delicious AND fun’that’s probably why its mere mention can make people smile. There is evidence that watermelon existed in Egypt and neighboring regions thousands of years ago. Archeologists found watermelon seeds among the remnants of a 5000-year-old settlement in Libya. What’s more, seeds and paintings of watermelons have been discovered in ancient Egyptian tombs, including King Tut’s. But, there’s also evidence that watermelon’s wild ancestor—a bitter fruit with hard, pale-green flesh—was a far cry from our familiar, favorite, summer fruit. which is juicy, sweet and delicious. Evidently, it took many centuries to evolve into the juicy, sweet and delicious fruit (or is it vegetable?) we enjoy today. Gardening Tips Watermelon Gardening Tips Difficulty Easy-Moderate IF your growing season is warm and long, and you have space. Sun Full sun. Water Watermelon are heavy drinkers and feeders. Regular watering is key. Soil Well-drained soil enriched with compost. The soil temperature must be at least 70°F. The warmer it is, the faster watermelon seeds will germinate. At 70° F, seeds will germinate in 10 days; at 90°, it may only take 3. Air Watermelons like it hot! Timing Start watermelon seeds indoors about 4 weeks before your last anticipated spring frost; transplant seedlings outdoors once it’s consistently warm outside. Or, if your growing season is long enough, direct sow seeds in the outdoor garden two weeks after the last frost. Planting Sow seeds 1 inch deep. Space according to seed packet instructions. Germination 3-10 days. Feeding Seeding to maturity generally takes at least 80 days. Mulch Add rich compost or organic fertilizer at planting time and again every six weeks. Pests & Diseases Add mulch as the seedlings develop to retain moisture and warmth and discourage weeds. Special Considerations Young watermelon plants are susceptible to cucumber beetles. You can protect them with row covers as long as you remove them to allow for pollination when flowers appear. Companion Plants Good companion plants are marigolds and nasturtiums as they both deter the potentially-problematic cucumber beetle. Container-Friendly Yes? If you have a large enough container (at least 5 gallons) and enough space to accommodate the watermelon’s spreading habit. Harvesting Harvesting Watermelon You can harvest watermelon when it appears to have stopped growing (after 80 days) or its underside starts to yellow and/or the stem starts to shrivel. It will last about 3-4 weeks after being cut from the vine. Highlights Growing Watermelon—Highlights Watermelon is a joyful, quintessential sign of summer and a fun plant to grow from seed! It’s easy to grow if you have long, hot summers where you live. Watermelon is slow-growing, requiring at least 80 days to reach maturity. Watermelon plants spread on vines and need a lot of room to grow. Did you know that some consider watermelon to be a vegetable? Watermelon is made up of over 90% water. Though it’s mostly water, it packs some serious nutrients including vitamins A, B6, and C, as well as lycopene, antioxidants and amino acids. Our Watermelon Varieties Watermelon - Crimson Sweet Seed From 1.79 Resource Categories Recipes (11) Uncategorized (1) Growing Guides (6) Growing Vegetables (22) Growing Herbs (9) Growing Flowers (5) Garden Design & Maintenance (18) Garden Pests & Diseases (4) Pollinator Gardens (7) Eco-Friendly Garden (12) Start Gardening (9) Great Gifts for Gardeners (3) Home Gardener Vegetable Seed Packets Herb Seed Packets Flower Seed Packets Gardener Accessories Pollinator Seed Packets Milkweed Packets for Monarch Butterflies Sunflower Seed Packets Seed Packets Sets and Gifts Perennial Flower Seeds Annual Flower Seeds Peppers Cold Crop Seeds Packets New Special Occasion Seeds Packets Pollinator / Environmental Seed Packets Earth Day Seed Packets Thank You Seed Packet Cards Milkweed Packets for Monarch Butterflies Love/Valentine Seed Packets Baby Shower Seed Packets Memorial or Funeral Seed Packets Congratulations Seed Packets Thinking of You Birthday Seed Packets Wedding Seed Packets Seed Packets for Small Business Seasonal / Holiday Seed packets & Gifts Christmas & Holiday Gifts Grow Good Things Novelty & Gift Seed Packets New! Seed Packet Cards Real Estate Seed Packets All Favor Seed Packets Custom Packets Custom Seed Packets: Seasonal Custom Seed Packets: Memorial Custom Seed Packets: Weddings Custom Seed Packets: Baby Showers Custom Seed Packets: Thank You Custom Seed Packets: Novelty, Gift & Religious Custom Seed Packets: Environment Custom Seed Packets: Realtors Custom Seed Packets: Corporate Full Custom Art Seed Packets: 50-500 Qty Bulk Bulk Vegetable Seed Bulk Herb Seed Bulk Flower Seed All Bulk Seed Bulk Seed on Sale Retail Wholesale All Retail Displays & Bulk Packets Retail Home Gardener Displays & Bulk Packets Special Occasion Favor Displays & Bulk packets 250 Piece Seed Packet Displays 500 Piece Seed Packet Displays 500 Packet Display Instructions Bulk Seed Packets Become a Wholesaler Sale Favor Packets on Sale All Sale Bulk Seed On Sale How to Garden Growing Vegetables Growing Herbs Growing Flowers Garden Design & Maintenance Garden Pests & Diseases Pollinator Gardens Eco-Friendly Garden Start Gardening Great Gifts for Gardeners Ingredients 9 cups peeled and chopped tomatoes (peel first, see below) 2 1/2 cups chopped green bell peppers 2 1/2 cups chopped white onion 4 medium jalapeños, chopped (substitute 2 of the jalapeños for 2 cayenne peppers for extra hot salsa) 8 large cloves garlic, chopped 6 teaspoons canning salt 1 cup white vinegar 1 (12 ounce) can tomato paste Instructions Remove tomato skins. Make an “X” in the bottom of the tomatoes, then place in boiling water for 60 seconds. Then, remove the tomatoes from the water and place directly into an ice bath. The skins should slip right off. Make the salsa. Place all of the ingredients in a large pot and simmer for 20-30 minutes, until thickened and cooked. Prepare cans to be sealed. Transfer the cooked salsa into clean, sterile jars leaving 1/2 inch headspace. Use a funnel for this. Wipe rims of jars and, then place lids on top. Process with a water bath. Bring a large saucepan filled with water to a boil. Your saucepan needs to be tall enough to have the water cover the jars by 2 inches.
How to Grow Tomatoes

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Tomatoes

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
Does anything say "home garden" like the humble tomato? We offer a number of heirloom tomato varieties, including cherry tomatoes you can pop right in your mouth, and meaty Brandywine tomatoes perfect for slicing.
How to Grow Radishes

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Radishes

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
A veggie that can be easy to overlook, radishes are easy and fast to grow, offering a crunchy texture and peppery flavor that’s made it popular in Mexican cuisine.
How to Grow Pumpkins

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Pumpkins

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
If you're looking to grow a Great Pumpkin of your very own, look no further than our Jack O'Lantern heirloom seeds! This variety produces plump, delicious pumpkins with a classic, perfect-for-carving Halloween look.
How to Grow Peas

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Peas

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
Peas are easy to grow and thrive in the cooler temperatures of spring and fall, making them a popular choice among both new and experienced home gardeners.
How to Grow Parsley

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Parsley

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
One of the most popular culinary herbs, parsley is a common seasoning and garnish that packs a ton of vitamins and minerals.
How to Grow Nasturtium

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Nasturtium

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
Nasturtiums can add an interesting splash of color to the garden… and then you can eat them! The leaves and flowers of this pollinator-friendly plant are completely edible, with a delicious peppery taste.
How to Grow Mint

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Mint

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
Known for its "cool" menthol fragrance and flavor, mint is also extremely easy and fast to grow, making it a perfect starter plant for the aspiring gardener.
How to Grow Lettuce

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Lettuce

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
Our gourmet lettuce varieties can be continuously grown and harvested throughout the growing season, ensuring a steady supply of crisp, delicious mixed salad.
How to Grow Kale

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Kale

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 11 2018
It's not just for millennials! Kale is hardy, easy to grow, and rich in nutrients, making it an increasingly popular addition to salads, smoothies, and other healthy dishes.
How to Grow Cucumbers

Bentley Seed Co. Blog

How to Grow Cucumbers

by Jeff Bentley on Nov 08 2018
Whether you're looking for a good slicing cucumber for salads, or the perfect cuke for pickling, we've got you covered with our popular cucumber varieties.