Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Our heirloom corn seed, Golden Bantam, is a sweet, mid-season variety capable of producing an abundance of delicious summer corn.

Cilantro might be the ultimate "love it or hate it" herb, with a lemony-peppery flavor that registers for some people as "soap," but which has also made cilantro a staple of Asian and Mexican cuisines.

Chives are an easy-to-grow perennial herb that can be used in a variety of recipes, while also offering medicinal benefits and a bit of decorative appeal.

One of the most popular root vegetables, carrots take a little time to grow, but come packed with important vitamins and nutrients.

Brussel sprouts may be an acquired taste, but these hardy veggies are prolific producers that pack a ton of nutrients.

One of the most popular herbs in America, basil is not only a delicious ingredient, but also boasts a number of medicinal and therapeutic qualities.

Arugula is an easy-to-grow leafy green, noted for a spicy, bitter flavor that makes for a delicious addition to salads and other dishes.

For the past several years, there has been growing public furor over the presence of neonicotinoids in flowering plants grown in the U.S. which some experts believe are responsible for dwindling bee populations. Widely used by farmers since the 1990’s when they were introduced, neonicotinoids are nicotine-derived systemic pesticides, designed to prevent insects from damaging crops. The pesticide is applied by coating the seeds used to grow a variety of crops including the vast majority of fruits and vegetables grown in this country. Residual amounts of pesticide remain in the plants as they flower and are ingested by bees drinking their nectar. While various studies have linked this ubiquitous pesticide to the well publicized colony collapse disorder (CCD) affecting domesticated honey bees, the dramatic decline in the native bee population is of even greater concern. Since 2006, when the alarm bells started ringing about CCD, the decline of more than 700 species of native bees in the U.S. has also been noted, with about half that number in danger of becoming extinct. Why are bees dying? The Importance of Bees to our Food Supply Many people are only vaguely aware of the multitude of bee species that live among us; only certain ones are universally recognized such as yellow jackets, bumble bees, and hornets, for example. In fact, there are 4000 native bee species in the U.S. responsible for pollinating 80 percent of flowering plants. One third of the food we grow is pollinated by bees. In particular, native bees are instrumental to the cultivation of many popular fruits, including tomatoes, eggplants, pumpkins, watermelons, blueberries, and cranberries, which are incapable of self fertilization. Native Bees are Super Pollinators Of course, domesticated honey bees are also important crop pollinators; without them, we probably wouldn’t have California almonds. But native bees are generally more effective pollinators, responsible for production of twice as much fruit, in the case of blueberries, for example, than honey bees. In addition, honey bees aren’t big enough to pollinate tomatoes; that work is left to the efforts of native bumble bees. While we are worried about the wellbeing of all bees, domesticated and native, given their importance for fertilizing crops as well as flowers, we are concerned that the plight of the native bees has not gotten enough attention. Most wild bees do not live in social colonies that can be managed; they lead a solitary existence, nesting in the hollow stems of wildflowers, in the ground or in wild brushy areas. Why are the Native Bees Disappearing? Almost all experts believe the reason for the decline in native bee populations is multi-dimensional perhaps due, in part, to pesticides, but most certainly due to other factors as well. A major contributing factor is related to the loss of the bees’ natural habitat as more and more “wild” land is developed to make way for new roads and houses with manicured yards. Bees Need Nutrition all Season Long Another important consideration is the bees’ disappearing food supply. All bees require sustenance and nutrition derived from the nectar of flowers throughout their entire lifespan. For native bees, which don’t store nectar as honey in hives as do honey bees, it’s critical that there is a plentiful supply of early, mid and late blooming annual and perennial flowering plants all season long. Monoculture practices of modern large scale farming operations whereby one crop is cultivated to the exclusion of all others, means that all the plants in a wide area flower at the same time for a short period, leaving the local native bees without food the rest the time. Bentley Seeds Wants to Help Save the Bees Our passion for the environment and the natural world led our family into the seed business over 40 years ago, and we continue to strive to be responsible stewards of the Earth today. Our high quality seeds come from small U.S. farms which practice sustainable growing methods. The seeds are non-GMO as well as “open-pollinated” which means they are from genetically diverse plant stock that will adapt well to their local growing conditions. Our packaging is eco-friendly, made out of recycled paper and printed with soy-based inks. As part of our company culture, we embrace using fewer resources and making the most of what we do use, to reduce our carbon footprint and landfill waste. Home Gardeners: How to Help Bees Plant non-GMO, pesticide-free bee and bird friendly flowers – everywhere! We offer a Bee Feed Flower Seed Mix as well as a Bird & Butterfly Attracting Seed Mix for this purpose. Even if you don’t have a lot of room, it would be helpful reserve some part of your yard not only for native flowering plants but for wild brush to serve as a nesting area. If you live in an apartment, maybe you can plant a flower box! Choose non-hybridized plants that have single flower tops, rich in nectar for the bees, such as marigolds and daisies. Plant Flowers early, mid and late season flowers to provide a steady supply of bee food. Bees need a fresh source of water too! A shallow container with a place to land will do. Use natural methods to keep pests in check. Prognosis for Bees’ Future: Sobering yet Hopeful As has oft been repeated in the media since the possibility of bees becoming extinct became widely known in 2006: what’s happening to the bees may well be a sobering reminder writ large of what’s happening to our global environment. Becoming aware and understanding the problem is the first step. Then, if each and every one of us makes an effort to grow at least one pesticide-free pollinator-attracting flowering plant every season, maybe we can save the bees…and maybe save ourselves in the process.

For those who grew up spending a lot of time outdoors in nature, the mention of milkweed may conjure up childhood memories of playing in open fields colonized with riotous collections of untamed, native plants. The favorite among them may have been the milkweed with its strange pods bursting with…come to think of it, what WAS that silky stuff that floated off into the air when you blew on it? Casual observers who happen upon milkweed today may admire the plants’ fragrant, intricately-patterned, pink flowers accenting the late summer goldenrod display, but they may not fully appreciate the importance of their role in the environment. Milkweed plants serve as an important food source for a number of insect species that help keep nature in balance as well as pollinate some of our most important crops. But native milkweed is also the key to the survival of the iconic and endangered monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus). Unfortunately, as more and more open space succumbs to development, milkweed isn’t as ubiquitous as it once was, contributing to the decline of the monarch population and other, less-celebrated insect species. The good news is that gardeners can help reverse the trend by planting native milkweed in their backyards. Monarch Butterfly Caterpillars Need Milkweed While beneficial insects and pollinators snack on a wide variety of plants and flowers, monarch butterflies seek out milkweed as a host for their eggs because it’s the only plant their larvae will eat. Migrating monarch butterflies deposit their eggs on milkweed plants in the spring on their return trip home to various regions of the U.S. from their overwintering site in Mexico. The eggs hatch into baby caterpillars that voraciously consume the milkweed plant leaves, quickly metamorphosing into butterflies and flying away to continue the cycle of life. Mother Nature created an ingeniously symbiotic relationship between some insects, such as monarch caterpillars, and milkweed plants. Milkweed contains a substance that is toxic to most insects and animals when ingested. But, for other species—like the monarch caterpillar, for example—the chemical compound is not toxic; they store the compounds in their tissue, rendering them toxic to potential predators, aiding their survival. Plant Native Milkweed Only Unfortunately, the marvelous system described above only works with native milkweed, not the increasingly-ubiquitous tropical milkweed. This non-native milkweed—Asclepias curassavica—also known as Mexican butterfly weed, has become popular in recent years among gardeners in warm regions of the country. Its popularity is due to the fact that it’s attractive, fast growing, and attracts monarch butterflies, but isn’t as unruly or invasive as native milkweed. The problem is because this milkweed doesn’t go dormant in winter, producing flowers continuously all year, it attracts monarch butterflies, even when it’s not seasonally-appropriate. This upsets their breeding and life-cycle. In addition, because tropical milkweed is available to snack on all year long, monarchs and other butterflies are not motivated to continue their migration to find other food sources. The result is the same toxic compounds that help keep the caterpillars and butterflies safe, builds up and becomes lethal, contributing to the decline of the overall butterfly population. Thus, gardeners are encouraged to cut tropical milkweed to the ground a few times each season, forcing the monarchs to move on, or, better yet, plant native milkweed. There are various species of native Milkweed—Asclepias—that grow in different regions of the U.S. and bloom at different times: Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa) Antelope-horns Milkweed (Asclepias asperula) Purple Milkweed (Asclepias purpurascens) Milkweed is easy to grow from seed and requires relatively little maintenance. And, of course, gardeners want to avoid applying pesticides or insecticides, which would defeat the purpose of growing milkweed. By the way, in addition to serving as a critical habitat and food source for important insects that benefit our environment, milkweed has had other important historical uses. For example, its sap—which is so toxic to certain animal and insect species as described above, while also toxic to humans in large quantities—was used by Native Americans for medicinal purposes, along with other parts of the plants. It was also used in cooking and as fiber for bow strings, fishing line, thread and belts. And, looping back to the question of the silky contents of the milkweed seed pods. While we may have goofed around with them as kids, blowing them at each other, they actually played an important historical role in World War II. The waterproof and buoyant silky seeds were used as filling for critically-needed flotation devices after the Japanese cut off the supply of kapok, a plant fiber previously used for that purpose. In essence, milkweed helped win the war! So, next time you’re thinking about what to plant in bare spaces of your yard, consider planting milkweed seeds. They will require little work and will pay off in the long run. They do tend to sprawl and spread so make sure you give them plenty of room. The more the merrier, right?

For gardeners, mid-summer represents the first stage in the culmination of their efforts. Summer flowers are in spectacular bloom, and delectable early season herbs and vegetables are ready for harvest. However, there is still a long way to go. For gardeners, summer is a bit like a marathon: they must remain vigilant their summer crops don’t succumb to the ever-present triple-threat of drought, weeds and pests. And, it almost goes without saying that any proud gardener desires to keep everything looking its best, which, at times, can seem like a Sisyphean task. Following is a list of gardening tips for mid-summer maintenance, useful for both newly minted green thumbs as well as for experienced gardeners who may benefit from a refresher. For those of you with children, including them in these efforts is a good way to introduce them to gardening while they cavort at your side enjoying summer’s delights. Mulch: If you didn’t get a chance to mulch your plants at the beginning of the season, or if you only mulched them lightly, summer is the time to lay it down/add more. Mulch shields plant roots from the sun and prevents the soil from drying out. It can consist of various organic matter such as shredded wood or leaves, straw,or grass clippings. Not only do these materials help protect the plants, they enrich the soil as they decompose. Another good mulch material in common use is newspaper (non-glossy) which is really effective at keeping weeds at bay but also degrades over time. Annuals: remove and replace spring flowering annuals such as pansies which fade in the heat. Replace them with heat loving varieties such as zinnias, sunflowers or cosmos (pollinators will thank you). Annuals need water and constant nourishment to support their magnificent blooms, so we recommend applying a granular time-release fertilizer at planting and providing supplemental feedings regularly throughout the season via a liquid fertilizer. To encourage fullness and repeat flowering, deadhead annuals such as dahlias, marigolds, and snapdragons. Perennials: cut early season flowering perennials to the ground to encourage regrowth. Deadhead mid-season plants to encourage reblooming. Pinch (prune) late season perennials such as mums, sedums and asters, to create fuller, more visually-pleasing plants. Weeding: mid-summer is when weeds really hit their stride and proliferate endlessly. Do your best to stay ahead of them and pull them before they are able to set seed which would make life more difficult. For example, here’s a fun fact: did you know that a single dandelion can produce 2000 seeds in a year?!  Weeds steal moisture and nutrients from your plants and also attract pests. They’ve got to go. Mulch: If you didn’t get a chance to mulch your plants at the beginning of the season, or if you only mulched them lightly, now is the time to lay it down/add more. Mulch shields plant roots from the sun and prevents the soil from drying out. It can consist of various organic matter such as shredded wood or leaves, straw,or grass clippings. Not only do these materials help protect the plants, they enrich the soil as they decompose. Another good mulch material in common use is newspaper (non-glossy) which is really effective at keeping weeds at bay but also degrades over time. Watering: Obviously, keeping your plants from drying out is really important, but the way you do it is also important for the health of your plants. Water deeply every few days (vs. every day) to encourage deep root systems. There are some plants, such as astilbe and hydrangea, that should be monitored as they are particularly susceptible to drying out. Pests: Keep an eye out for damaging insects and fungal diseases and eradicate them before them can do much harm. Some of these pests, such as Japanese beetles, are easy to spot and deal with, but others are more insidious. We recommend trying to eliminate pests naturally and avoiding toxic chemicals. Harvest Early Summer Crops: It’s important to harvest early season crops as soon as they have matured as they will not be at their best if you let them languish. Lettuce and other salad greens will bolt and become bitter if you don’t harvest them in time. Plant Fall Crops: Summer is the time for gardeners who live in zone 4-6 to plant crops for fall harvest. Good choices include lettuce, arugula (make sure these leafy greens are not in a full sun location in the mid-summer’s heat), broccoli, kale, spinach and cilantro. Root vegetables may also be a good choice. Be sure to turn the soil and add fertilizer before planting new crops. Occasionally, depending on the region in which you live, there are periods when summer can go all wrong. It can be cool and damp or be unrelentingly hot with no rain, seriously challenging your ability to grow plants that resemble the model specimens you see in gardening books or online. When this happens, try to be patient and retain a sense of humor about the situation. Just remember two truths: ‘you can’t beat Mother Nature’ and for those in the northern half of the country, if you don’t like the weather, wait a minute and it will change’. And, be thankful that more often than not, summer is glorious, even if it is way too short.

As a vegetable gardener, you can consult just about any expert gardening source and you’ll be advised to amend your soil with ‘rich organic matter’ for best results. In case you’re wondering what that actually means, it refers to any decaying plant material or animal manure, also known as compost. As this material decomposes, it returns nutrients to the soil for use by your plants, ideally reducing the need for chemical fertilizer. While you can buy bagged compost at your local garden supply store, or maybe get it delivered in bulk, why not create your own? It’s eco-friendly and it’s not that difficult, particularly if you practice lasagna gardening, otherwise known as no-till gardening or composting in place. The principle behind lasagna gardening is to create a garden bed consisting of layered organic material organized to retain moisture and nutrients while maximizing its surface area to allow efficient, aerobic decomposition. There is no digging or tilling required and it doesn’t require much maintenance over time. The only downside to creating a lasagna-style compost bed is that it takes time to decompose to the point that it’s ready for planting. Depending on your climate and materials used, it may take several months or even up to a year to have a rich, plantable bed. Therefore, you must plan your efforts accordingly and can create your lasagna garden(s) over time. You could, for example, create your lasagna bed in the early fall, allowing it to decompose over the winter so that it might be ready for planting in the spring. An Argument for No-Till Gardening While farmers and gardeners have been tilling their land since time immemorial (there’s even evidence of it in ancient Egypt), it has become increasingly clear, in recent years, that the practice is not good for the soil and it’s not good for the environment. While tilling is thought to be an efficient way to control weeds by disrupting their life cycle, an unfortunate side effect is that it also disturbs the soil’s important ecosystem. Tilled soil is prone to erosion, compaction, and nutrient loss. Tilling the soil also releases carbon from the soil into the atmosphere contributing to greenhouse gas build up. Lasagna gardening is a sustainable way to grow vegetables and flowers and doesn’t entail tilling. Getting Started To get started, pick a sunny, reasonably flat area of the yard and outline your garden area, or build the sides if you’re creating a raised bed. Note that in order to grow and thrive, most vegetables require at least eight hours of direct sunlight each day. If you’re creating the lasagna garden bed on top of grass sod or a weeded area of the yard, for best results, lay down some brown corrugated cardboard or several layers of newspaper first and wet them down. This will smother the the grass and weeds which will break down into the soil. For the bottom layer of your lasagna garden, arrange a loose layer of twigs and branches. It’s important to choose material that won’t compress as the compost pile gets built up. And, by arranging it loosely, you allow air to reach the pile, hastening decomposition and reducing unpleasant smells. Take care choosing which tree branches you use: some types, such as cherry, are toxic, and some, such as locust, take too long to break down. To be safe, stick with common wood such as maple, oak, and pine. The next layer, also referred to as the brown layer, should consist of relatively coarse, carbon rich materials such as dried leaves, wood chips, straw, sawdust, shredded paper or cardboard. The purpose of the materials in this layer is to balance the denser, moist materials in the next layer. Note that hay is not a good substitute for straw as it takes awhile to break down and has seeds that will readily sprout into weeds. And, if you use sawdust, use it only in a small proportion to the other materials. The following layer, known as the green layer, consists of nitrogen-rich materials which may include kitchen food scraps, grass clippings, weeds, manure, etc. These materials should not include meat, dairy products, bones, or greasy or oily substances which may attract unwanted pests. Alternate green and brown layers, always ending with a brown layer on top to provide cover for the green layer. Brown layers should be two to three times as thick as green layers. So, for one- to two-inch green layers, you should have two- to six-inch brown layers. Brown layers should be shaped like shallow bowls with the center of the layer below the sides, enclosing the green layer so it’s not exposed on the sides welcoming pests. Aim for a layered bed that’s two feet tall. Top it with straw and water it regularly during times of drought. If pests, such as rodents and racoons, become an issue, try sprinkling cayenne pepper around the area. Cinnamon prevents fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew. And, in time, you’ll have a beautiful bed, chockablock full of enriched soil, ready for planting. There are various other techniques you can employ to create no till raised garden beds. For example, a horticultural practice that originated in Germany and Eastern Europe—hugelkultur (German for ‘mound culture’)—involves making raised beds out of rotten wood. You can also use straw bales to grow vegetables. If you live in an area with poor, heavy soil, you may have no choice but to consider one of these alternative gardening methods. Happy planting!

With any new occupation or hobby, there’s always a lot to learn, oftentimes including new lingo—which can be intimidating, for sure. The world of gardening is no different. The planting instructions listed the back of your seed packets, for example, can almost seem like a foreign language at first, making the whole process feel much more complicated than it actually is. One common phrase is particularly daunting: ‘plant in well-drained soil’. It’s obviously really important. But what does it mean and how do you do it? We will explain. Growing Plants From Seed: a Quick Tutorial If you’re interested in learning how to grow vegetables, the process of growing plants from seed is simple, in concept. You plant the seed in a growing medium (which, for purposes of this post, we’ll say is soil) and add some water which will stimulate the seed to germinate or sprout, assuming the soil temperature is in right range. A seed’s initial growth is driven by respiration which is fueled by water and air held in the soil. If the soil contains too much of either—as a result of over- or under-watering – the seed can’t germinate. Under the right conditions, as a plant germinates from seed, the tiny root previously stored within the seed grows downward in the soil serving as an anchor root. This root enables the sprout to start absorbing water and nutrients from the soil, which, in turn, drives the emergence and growth of the seedling above ground. As the seedling grows, it puts down more roots and the cycle continues. In reality, problems can occur if the soil doesn’t serve as a hospitable medium for growing veggies, either because it lacks appropriate moisture or because it doesn’t provide the nutrients the plant needs to grow. This can happen if the nature of the soil renders it unable to hold and exchange nutrients with the plant. THIS is where the concept of ‘enriched, well-drained soil’ comes into play. Soil that is too dense to allow unimpeded passage of water, nutrients, organisms—and roots—won’t properly support varied plant life. But soil that’s not dense enough to hold water and nutrients is also not conducive for growing plants either. So, the question is what is the nature of YOUR garden soil and what amendments, if any, do you need to make? What is Soil Made of? If you’re wondering how to grow vegetables, it’s important to understand the composition of soil. Soil is composed of three elements: minerals, decaying organic material, and living organisms. The minerals are a mixture of sand, silt, and clay that come from the ongoing, millenia-old breakdown of the solid rock that layers the Earth. The decaying, organic material consists of leaves and plant remains; the living organisms include fungi, nematodes, earthworms, ants, moles, etc. The proportions and chemical makeup of these soil elements vary enormously from region to region, resulting in soil textures that range from fine sand to heavy clay. Neither of those extremes is ideal for growing veggies; most plants do best in soil that’s a balanced mix: 40 percent sand, 40 percent silt, and 20 percent clay. A well-balanced soil blend is often referred to as loam. How to Determine Your Soil Type With dampened soil, grab a handful and rub it between your fingers: if it feels gritty, that means it’s sandy; if it feels slimy, it’s clay. Another method is to take that handful of soil and roll it into a ribbon in your hands, just like you used to do with modeling clay in kindergarten: if you can dangle the ribbon vertically without it breaking, that means your soil is mostly heavy clay. If it forms into a ribbon but breaks when you dangle it, it’s probably only partially clay. If you simply can’t roll it into a ribbon, it’s probably mostly sandy soil. Best Soil Qualities for Plants Even if they manage to germinate, most plants suffer and die when their roots are subjected to wet, soggy conditions. This is one of the problems with heavy, clay soil: because it is so dense, it doesn’t allow for easy water drainage. Clay soil also gets compacted easily—when trampled by people, animals, or machines—which just makes matters worse. At the other end of the spectrum, sandy soil has a lot of air particles between its grains of sand, which allows water to drain through it easily, which should, theoretically, make it conducive to growing plants. But, in reality, sandy soils don’t retain nutrients and can dry out too quickly, which means they’re less than ideal for plant growth, as well. So if your soil is either too sandy or has too much clay, you need to fix it. Bringing Your Soil up to Par To make your sandy soil more absorbent, add organic matter such as compost, straw, shredded wood bark, etc. The coarser the material, the slower it will break down, which is what you’re aiming for. By contrast, clay soil needs much lighter organic material worked into it, such as compost, sand, rock dust, or peat moss—and a lot of it. This must be a continual process over time, in order to effectively improve the soil texture and quality for the long run. Ideally, you would amend your clay soil for growing veggies in the fall, thus avoiding wet, spring conditions which makes the process more difficult. In either case, sandy or clay, soil can also be improved through the use of organic mulch such as coarsely-shredded wood or wood chips. Also, depending on your region and climate, you may also want to consider planting winter cover crops to contribute additional organic material to the soil. By the way, if you’re wondering how to grow vegetables from seed, you don’t need to add fertilizer until after the seedlings’ ‘true leaves’ appear. We will address this topic in a future post. In the meantime, we hope we’ve elucidated the concept of well-drained soil and it’s one less bit of lingo to puzzle over. Happy planting.

Given that they’re—um—wild, wildflowers are easy to grow, right? Absolutely. “Plant it and forget it—until it blooms!” You just need to adhere to a few basic principles of gardening: Identify an appropriate location with adequate light and drainage Choose native wildflower seeds appropriate for the spot you’ve chosen Wait until the danger of frost has passed in the spring (or in the fall in mild climates) Prepare the soil Plant the seeds That’s it. As with most new gardening projects, or new gardeners, we recommend that you start out on a small scale and expand your effort over time. Following are a few additional pointers. Choosing an Area for Planting Ideally, you would choose a spot that has full sun (more than 6 hours/day). But, if that’s not possible, choose a Shade Wildflower seed mix with beautiful woodland flower varieties. A wildflower garden, contributing a splash of color to the landscape, looks best in a natural setting, in a large field or bordering a woodland. But, if you don’t have that kind of yard, you can accomplish the same effect by planting the wildflowers as a border in front of a fixture such as a fence or stonewall. As is the case with most plants, a wildflower garden demands well-drained soil, which means you must plant in an area that doesn’t harbor standing water. At the same time, however, the new garden needs to be proximate to a water source as the wildflower seeds and seedlings will need to be kept moist in the early stages. Choose your Wildflower Seeds Wildflower gardens generally consist of a mix of annual and perennial flowers to ensure a succession of bloom throughout the season—not only for esthetic reasons—but also to provide continuous nourishment for important native pollinators. As pointed out above, the plant seeds should be native or adapted to the region where you live. Bentley Seeds has wildflower seed packets customized for all different areas of the country, including: Midwest, Mountain, Northeast, Northwest, Mountain, Southeast, Southwest, and Texas. You can also buy wildflower seed mix specifically designed to attract bees, birds and butterflies. For planting in a large area, it’s easier and more cost effective to buy Bulk Flower mix. Prepare the Soil How much effort you go to to prepare the soil for the garden depends on what the nature of the area you’re planting is.The soil doesn’t need to be amended unless it’s particularly sandy and/or completely lacking in organic matter. For best results, you need to have a cleared area of loose soil for the garden—whether that means digging up sod or clearing an area covered with weeds and rocks. Timing is key. Once the area has been prepared, you must plant the seeds quickly, or local weeds will invade and colonize. Planting the Wildflower Seeds Wildflower seeds are easy to plant – just follow the instructions on the seed packet, which generally entails sprinkling the seeds in the prepared area and cover them loosely with soil. They do not need fertilizer. You may want to cover the garden with a very thin layer of straw mulch to keep the seeds from blowing away or being disturbed by hungry birds. As long as you water the garden regularly, the seeds will germinate in no time. As with all gardens, be sure to remove weeds on a regular basis, especially in the beginning, to allow the wildflowers to gain the upper hand. Over time, though you’ll have to resign yourself to the fact that weeds will coexist with your wildflowers—which is part of that natural look you were after, right? In terms of timing, it depends on your USDA Gardening Zone. For Zones 1-6, it’s best to plant in early spring, after the frost. Otherwise, for Zones 7-11, we recommend planting in late fall which leaves the seeds dormant until the soil warms up in the spring. Timeline: Seed to Germination to Bloom Depending on the ambient temperature when you plant your wildflower seeds, and the type of wildflowers included in your seed mix, germination can take place within several days or within a couple of weeks. Remember, the seeds need continuous moisture in order to sprout and grow. Wildflowers are a beautiful addition to any landscape and are a good way to attract birds, bees and butterflies. For those who love nature, and flowers, in particular, it’s a real pleasure to have a semi-wild colorful area of the yard that doubles as a haven for beneficial wildlife. FINAL NOTE The subject of wildflowers has been embroiled in controversy in recent years as more and more focus has been brought to bear on invasive plants which not only can be a nuisance but destructive to the environment as well. Unfortunately, many people, including some so-called experts conflate wildflowers with invasive plants, giving the former a bad name. The truth of the matter is, for the most part, native wildflowers behave well in the garden given that they have evolved over time to become a cooperative part of the local ecosystem. By contrast, invasive plants tend to come from outside the region and don’t have established natural predators to keep their expansion in check. Over time, invasives may quickly take over and crowd out all other local plant species, which, in turn, puts the local pollinators that depend on them at risk. In this post, we recommend planting native plant seeds as well as those adapted to the region in which you live. Most seed companies should offer different wildflower seed packets for specific regions of the country. If in doubt, you can always double-check with your local Cooperative Extension Service.

The appearance of butterflies in spring and summer elicits universal delight. With their delicate wings and varied colors and intricate markings, along with their seemingly capricious flight paths, they are a never-ending source of fascination and wonder. Sadly, more than a few butterfly species are listed as endangered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service—including the beloved monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus)—due to loss of their habitat. But gardeners can help save the butterflies through judicious planting and landscaping as we explain below. (Photo: National Weather Service) Interestingly, butterflies made the national news in the fall of 2017: a huge swarm suddenly appeared as a giant, spectacularly-colored blob on Colorado weather radar, prompting confused personnel at the National Weather Service to reach out to the public on the ground via Twitter for help determining what it was. It turns it was a 70-mile mass of Painted Lady butterflies making their way toward their winter migration grounds in the southwestern U.S. and Mexico. Why do Butterflies Migrate? Painted lady butterflies, a species commonly confused with their larger, more famous migrating cousin, the monarch butterfly, are found all across the continental U.S. during warmer months. These butterflies are not only beautiful but they serve a critical function in our environment by pollinating important flowers and providing food in caterpillar form for some of our favorite birds. As the days become shorter, accompanied by cooler, fluctuating temperatures—signaling the start of fall—certain species of butterflies are prompted to begin their seasonal migration. Since they’re cold-blooded, butterflies simply can’t handle the cold in the north and some species head to warmer climes in order to survive long enough to reproduce. Other species remain, spending the winter as caterpillars or pupae; a few species of adult butterflies hibernate locally in crevices of trees or other structures. What do Butterflies Eat? Migrating butterflies must head south in search of fresh food sources. Adult butterflies consume a variety of different substances for nourishment, including flower nectar, tree sap, pollen, and rotting fruit ‘juice’—culinary fare which isn’t normally available in northern winters. Adult butterflies drink—not eat—for sustenance. Migrating butterfly larvae, which emerge as caterpillars in the spring, on the other hand, eat leaves and flowers, in enormous quantities. By the way, here’s a fun fact: adult butterflies taste with their feet which means they can sense what a flower tastes like simply by landing on it. Multiple Species of Migrating Butterflies There are various species of North American butterflies that migrate, in addition to the the two listed above, they include Common Buckeye, American Lady, Red Admiral, Cloudless Sulphur, Skipper, Sachem, Question Mark, Clouded Skipper, Fiery Skipper, and Mourning Cloak. As has been well-documented, awe-inspiring monarch butterflies migrate the longest distances, taking advantage of air currents and thermals with some sort of internal compass—traveling sometimes up to 3,000 miles! Where do Monarch Butterflies spend the Winter? Monarch butterflies return to overwinter in the same locations near the coast in southern California and in the mountain forests of central Mexico every year. They spend the winter together roosting in a tight cluster in the trees in order to stay warm and conserve energy in anticipation of breeding in late winter and then, shortly afterward, commencing the return trip north. Interestingly, though, the butterflies that head south in the fall for semi-hibernation are not the same ones that left the preceding spring—they are a subsequent generation. Yet, somehow, the latest generation knows to return to the same overwintering spot—a remarkable and mysterious feat of nature. Unfortunately, these overwintering habitats have been shrinking due to urban development and deforestation due to climate change, which has contributed to the documented decline in the population of monarch butterflies in the last twenty years. The good news is various wildlife experts and both the U.S. and Mexican governments have been working together to try and come up with a plan to address this problem, though time is running out. Monarch Butterfly Spring Migration In early spring, as they embark on their return trip, the nomadic monarchs slowly make their way to the southwestern U.S. where they seek out milkweed plants as a place to lay their eggs, using a combination of visual and chemical cues. Monarch butterfly larvae—the caterpillars that quickly emerge from the eggs—ONLY eat milkweed which is why it’s so important that the adults are able to find it. If they’re successful, they launch the next generation—before dying a few weeks later. The caterpillars develop into butterflies and continue the migration north. It will take several generations—and a lot of milkweed plants along their route—for monarch butterflies to make it back to their summer home. Adult monarchs feed on a variety of nectar-producing flowering plants in addition to milkweed. It’s important that milkweed and other life-sustaining plants are available from early spring until late fall to ensure the butterflies always have something to eat (or rather, drink). Wanted: Home Gardeners to Plant Milkweed Unfortunately, native milkweed plants have been disappearing due to modern, large-scale farming and weed control practices, which have been the biggest contributor to the drop in the monarch population, according to researchers. While conservationists are busy trying to work out a broad solution to this problem, home gardeners can help, starting immediately: Plant milkweed species native to your area. Of the estimated 75 or so species of milkweed native to the U.S., about 30 of them have been documented as monarch larval hosts. However, seeds are only available publicly for about a dozen of them, and even fewer might be available locally depending on where you live. Ordering online from reputable seed company may be your best bet :-). Reliable native species of milkweed include: asclepias syriaca, asclepias incarnata, asclepias tuberosa, asclepias speciosa. It’s important that you plant high quality, genetically-appropriate, locally adapted seeds. Spread the word: local, wild milkweed plants are not useless weeds—they need to be preserved! Plant a assorted collection of colorful, nectar- and pollen-rich flowers timed for successive blooming throughout the growing season. Butterflies are near-sighted so planting masses of flowers works best to attract them. Plant the flowers in a sunny location. Butterflies love warm sunny places! Plant fruit trees, if you have the space. Don’t use commercial, chemical insecticides or herbicides. If garden pests become a problem, try natural remedies. Provide places for butterflies to rest in the sunlight such as flat stones, for example. Make water available to the butterflies via birdbaths, ponds, fountains or sprinklers. Experts say that the butterflies don’t need the water for hydration since they get that through the flower nectar, but they need a place to “puddle” in the moist soil, extracting needed minerals. Butterflies and the Environment Butterflies and other pollinators are important for our food supply as well as many of the beautiful flowers that surround us in summer. But they are also a bellwether for our environmental health. If their numbers continue to drop, that doesn’t bode well for the rest of us. If we all just plant a few native flowers including milkweed, we can make a difference.

For those of who enjoy cooking—in addition to gardening—creating your own herb garden is a delightful endeavor. Having a variety of fresh herbs on hand provides an easy way to enhance the flavor of just about any culinary creation. For example, fresh cilantro can make the difference between, say, Mexican cuisine that is simply ho-hum and that which is truly mouth-watering. And, a mint julep on a hot summer day just wouldn’t seem as refreshing without the mint. Herbs have also long been valued for their medicinal and healing qualities. Although it requires an experienced herbalist to know how to extract the beneficial substances from many herbs, some can be easily prepared for use in soothing teas and balms. Herbs are easy to grow from seed by those armed with a little knowledge and can be continuously harvested throughout the growing season, requiring little maintenance. And, you don’t need a lot of space to grow herbs; most are relatively compact, and well suited to container gardening, especially given their esthetic appeal. Not only are herbs a fragrant, attractive addition to containers and garden beds, they also serve a purpose beyond their culinary value: some ward off insect pests and attract beneficial ones. You don’t have to have a green thumb to grow and enjoy your own herbs successfully. Here are some tips for getting started: Growing Herbs from Seed While fledgling gardeners may feel trepidation growing herbs from seed, it’s really not hard, as long as you adhere to a few basic guidelines: Light: Almost all herbs need full sun in order to grow properly. If you’re growing herbs indoors, you’re likely to require grow lights during certain time periods, unless you happen to reside in a year-round sunny region with an exceptionally sunny spot in your home. Soil & Air Temperature: While some mature herb plants tolerate very cold air temperatures, seedlings like it warm. And, if soil temperatures are too low, your seeds won’t even germinate. Generally, in order for seeds to sprout, air temperatures should be over 50° and soil temperatures should be 70° F or warmer. For this reason, gardeners in the northern half of the country are advised to start seeds indoors—where temperatures can be controlled—in early spring, and to transplant seedlings outdoors once spring has progressed and temperatures have moderated. Water: It’s really important to keep your seeds and seedlings consistently moist, but NOT soaked. Otherwise, the seeds won’t germinate. Regular, gentle watering is important, which is another reason to start seeds indoors in a controlled environment. Mature plants, while much more resilient than seedlings, will need supplemental watering during periods of drought and may not thrive during particularly wet, cool summers. Fertilizer: Once your seedlings approach maturity, you can apply an organic, time-release fertilizer to ensure healthy growth. Indoor plants will need regular application. Pinch-off Flower Buds: While it may seem counterintuitive at first, you must pinch-off any flower buds that appear. Herbs produce flowers as they reach the end of their life cycle; flowering is a way to set seed for the next generation. By pinching off the flower buds, you will force the plants to put all their energy into growing more yummy foliage. Harvesting Herbs You can start harvesting your herbs at any time after they’re about 6-8” high and/or have developed enough healthy foliage there’s clearly some to spare. When harvesting herb foliage, you always want to be sure to leave enough behind so that the plant can continue growing. As you may remember from Biology class, plants need some foliage to photosynthesize. The preferred method of harvest will vary from herb to herb. When harvesting chives, for example, you will want to cut off the stalks close to the ground. Basil, on the other hand, is best harvested by cutting stalks and leaves from the top of the plant, to encourage bushy re-growth. Eventually (sadly!), as the days of summer start to wane, you may decide to try and forestall the inevitable end of your glorious herb crop. You have two choices: you could harvest it in its entirety and preserve it; or, you can move it indoors if you have the space and light. Preserving Herbs To preserve fresh herbs for use throughout the fall and winter, you have two choices: you can dry them or freeze them. Different herbs lend themselves to each of these methods. Air drying works well for herbs that have a low moisture content such as oregano, thyme, sweet marjoram, summer savory, and sage. You can air dry these herbs naturally or you can use an oven. The latter, though it uses more energy, is faster and more reliable. To oven dry your herbs, spread them on a parchment-paper lined baking sheet (to avoid off flavors from the metal) and bake them at 150° F with the oven door slightly open. Keep a close eye on them and remove them when they crumble to the touch (times will vary from one to several hours). Pack them in an airtight container for use until the following summer. Freezing works well for herbs with a higher moisture content such as basil, chives, cilantro and parsley. Our favorite method is to chop up the herbs and pack them into ice trays topped off with water or vegetable broth and freeze them. For best results, transfer the frozen herb cubes into an airtight container to remain in the freezer for use over the course of the next few months. Continuing Growing Herbs Indoors If you’re lucky enough to have the space and light indoors, it’s a no brainer to move your herbs indoors to continue growing throughout the colder months. Obviously, it’s easiest if you’re already growing the herbs in containers; otherwise, you can transplant them from the garden into containers. Growing plants indoors is not without its challenges, but herbs are relatively easy. Growing your own herbs is easy and satisfying and something we highly recommend. If you’re thinking about starting a garden, we say herbs should be first on the list. Whether you simply enjoy them for their appearance and fragrance, or use them as herbal remedies or to enhance your culinary creations, they are enormously appealing. And, once you start, you won’t be able to stop, much to the delight of your visiting friends, family, and neighbors. 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Introduction to Gardening: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly The world of gardening can be intimidating to those of you who haven’t yet tried to grow anything, or who may have dabbled in growing plants but failed. While there’s a seemingly endless amount of gardening information out there, much of it is out of context which can leave beginner gardeners bewildered about where to start. Our advice is don’t overthink it: jump right in—but start small. Choose to grow a limited number of relatively foolproof plants to increase the odds of success which will, hopefully, motivate you to keep at it. Otherwise, you may end up giving up in frustration, having decided that you were simply not born with a green thumb. Don’t give up! Successful gardeners are a tenacious lot, always learning from experience. You can do the same. To get started, you need to answer a few basic questions and follow some tried and true best gardening practices: Where do you live? How cold does it get in winter? How long is your summer growing season? How much sunlight do you have? How much space do you have? Does your area have animals pests (deer, rabbits, woodchucks, chipmunks, rodents) that are likely to be a nuisance? What do you want to grow: flowers, herbs, vegetables or all three (vs. what you can realistically grow taking the above into account)? Best practices: soil, water and mulch, fertilizer. What is your Planting Zone? The first piece of advice generally given to new gardeners in gardening books and websites is to determine what U.S.D.A. hardiness zone you live in, to determine what plants will thrive in your area. These zones are based on ‘average annual minimum winter temperatures, divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones.’ While determining your U.S.D.A. zone is important for growing semi-permanent landscape fixtures such as trees, shrubs, and perennials, it’s less important for summer annuals. What is important is that you learn when your average last spring and first fall hard frosts are likely to occur, because that will determine how long your summer growing season is. The length of your growing season has a bearing on what plants you can grow—or how you start them from seed—particularly if you’re considering vegetable gardening. Some vegetables, such as eggplant, are both slow growing and sensitive to cold, so if you live in a northerly climate, and wanted to grow them from seed, you would have to start them indoors eight to ten weeks before the anticipated last spring frost. Plants Need Space and Sunlight There are several other important variables related to your location that need to be ascertained up front, before you move on to selecting plants to grow: how much space do you have for your garden, how much daily sunlight will your garden receive, and what kind of animal plant predators are in your neighborhood? Many flowers and most herbs and vegetables require at least eight hours of sunlight each day to grow properly. This is a tough thing to hear if you happen to have a shady yard. You may be tempted to ignore it—and you wouldn’t be the first. But, that’s a recipe for failure. If you can’t make landscaping adjustments to increase the sunlight in your garden area, consider planting a shade garden. While the selection of shade loving plants is more limited, there are some beautiful options. It’s also important to figure out how much space you have for your garden since some plants you might be tempted to grow require a lot more space than you have available. Most flowers and herbs (not mint!) grow in a contained, orderly fashion, and can be planted in small spaces, including pots and window boxes. However, certain kinds of vine-based vegetables such as squash and pumpkins, require plenty of space to sprawl. Finally, you should take stock of what voracious plant-eating critters are in your neighborhood. That beautiful deer family that regularly traverses your neighborhood may add to its charming bucolic nature, but will become your foe in the battlefield that your garden will become. If you’re not prepared to fence out or otherwise repel rabbits, woodchucks, chipmunks, as well as deer, then only consider growing plants they don’t like—which is a short list. What Plants to Grow? Do you want to grow flowers, herbs, or vegetables—or all three? Generally speaking, flowers and herbs require less care and maintenance than vegetables. But, if you’re among the many new gardeners who are principally motivated by the idea of growing your own vegetables—go for it—just be sure to make judicious choices. Easy-to-grow vegetables include various leafy greens such as lettuce, arugula, spinach, and Swiss chard. These leafy greens are among the vegetables that grow best in the relatively cool temperatures of late winter/early spring or fall. Lettuce, arugula, and spinach will bolt (turn to seed) in high mid-summer temperatures, so climate and timing are key. Tomatoes, almost everyone’s favorite summer garden fruit, on the other hand, are a little tricky. That doesn’t mean new gardeners can’t grow them. You just need to be prepared to give them the proper care they need (no cutting corners allowed), as outlined in our growing guide. Basic Garden Design and Care Create a Healthy Garden Bed To give your plants a fighting chance, it behooves you to create a healthy garden bed. Though some plants can grow just about anywhere, most vegetable plants require well-drained soil that includes plenty of organic matter. We recommend creating a raised bed which involves a little extra work on the front end, but will pay off in the long run. Or, you can create a garden using containers. Watering and Mulching Proper watering and moisture management are crucial to successful plant care, in addition to sunlight and good soil, and are, arguably among the hardest concepts for new gardeners to grasp. In your zeal to provide the best plant care, you might be tempted to water your plants all time time; that would be a mistake.Too much water is problematic for most plants and may cause them to drown. Established plants do best with deep watering every few days versus a daily sprinkling of water—whether supplied by Mother Nature or your garden hose. By allowing time between waterings, you force the plant roots to grow deeper in the earth in search of water, making them stronger and better able to withstand drought. How you water your plants is important too. For best results, gently water them at their base, taking care not to let water splash up on the leaves which is an invitation to pests and fungi. Once your plants are several inches high, it’s important to mulch your garden bed to conserve moisture and prevent the plant roots from drying out. Various types of mulch will do, as long as it is dense enough to stay put on windy days. Feeding/Fertilizing Even if you’ve created a raised bed with enriched soil, you will still need to apply fertilizer periodically throughout the growing season, especially if you’re growing vegetables, which tend to be heavy feeders. Fertilizer is really important for container gardening because soil nutrients aren’t being replenished . There are various schools of thought on the best fertilizers to use. We recommend adding an organic, time-release fertilizer every six weeks or so, or whatever your planting instructions advise. Introduction to Gardening: Final Thoughts Though generally advertised as a relaxing, non-stressful activity, many experienced gardeners will tell you that gardening is like war: you’re fighting a number of battles at once on several different fronts. The aforementioned critter battles are just one example. Somehow, though, the challenges of successfully creating a beautiful, healthy garden in the face of uncontrollable elements holds some strange appeal, especially as you learn how to overcome them. The weather, of course, is the biggest challenge as there’s no controlling it. You can mitigate some of its effects: during droughts, for example, you can apply extra water to your plants, unless, of course, you live in an area with water restrictions, as in some parts of California. Too much rain, on the other hand, is problematic, especially for seedlings, and, occasionally, can ruin an entire gardening season. That’s life in the garden. Speaking of seedlings, you have the choice of purchasing them at your local nursery, or growing your own from seed. There are pros and cons of each. Purchasing ‘ready-made’ seedlings may be a little easier but they’re relatively expensive and usually available in limited varieties. Growing plants from seed allows you to choose tried and true heirloom varieties and have total control over the entire growing process. Though it may seem a little daunting at first, if you stick with it, you may find gardening as satisfying as we do. Sample Starter Garden Below, we provide some recommendations for a full sun garden. We include a mix of flowers, herbs, and vegetables which are generally easy to grow and don’t require much fuss. It’s wise to have a mixed garden as the flowers, herbs and vegetables complement each other as companion plants. For additional details about some of the plants we recommend, please consult our growing guides. You can create a garden of any size and shape though we recommend a rectangular design to allow easy access to your plants from both sides. Common garden bed sizes are three feet by six feet or four feet by eight feet. Or, you can create a container garden. Full Sun Garden Annual Flowers: Marigold Dwarf French Mix, Nasturtium Jewel Mixed Color, Phlox Drummondii Perennial Flowers: Blue Flax, Black-Eyed Susan, Coneflower, Shasta Daisy Herbs: Chives, parsley, summer savory, mint, thyme Vegetables: Buttercrunch lettuce, cherry belle radish, bloomsdale spinach, black zucchini squash, sweetie cherry tomato

Northern Edition (Zones 4-6) Even if you live in the northern part of the country where summers are relatively short, you can maximize the growing season yield by planting staggered vegetable crops if you understand how to do it. We provide some helpful tips below. For the rest of you who live in warmer regions (zones 7-10), you can plan your crops so you can have fresh produce most of the year! We have some tips for you too, in the Southern Edition of this post. Growing Cool Weather Crops in Spring For starters, if you are partial to oh-so-nutritious leafy greens, they are among the easiest crops to grow and can be started from seed indoors in late winter and transplanted outdoors in early spring, even when there’s still a possibility of a light frost. You can also direct sow them outdoors when your soil reaches the optimal temperature of 65-75° F. These greens include lettuce, endive, kale, spinach, chard, cabbage, mustard greens, and arugula. Plant a few seeds of each at a time in batches about 10 days apart, on a staggered basis, ensuring you will have delicious supply on hand starting in late spring/early summer. Other good cool weather crops you can start in early spring include peas and broccoli. As easy as these vegetables are to grow in the cool weather, things can get a little tricky when the full heat of summer arrives in earnest. Come, say, late June/early July, it’s time to plant some new vegetables to replace some of these cool weather plants, particularly the leafy greens, like lettuce and arugula, that are prone to bolting. Bolting in Plants — Explained Bolting is when cool weather leafy crops become stressed by mid-summer heat and devote all their energy to setting seed. This is the stage when these plants go from being leaf-based to flowering. During this time, heretofore sweet, leafy, refreshing greens become tough, bitter and unappetizing—at least to humans. While you could leave the bolted leafy greens as is to benefit pollinators, those of you with limited space will want to pull them up to make room for another crop. Besides, you probably have plenty of flowers on hand for pollinators, right? Vegetable Crop Rotation in Mid-Summer for a Fall Harvest What to Plant in June or July Northerners will want to choose heat-loving vegetables that grow relatively quickly to ensure they have enough time to mature before the first fall frost. Good choices include the following: Beans Beets Evergreen Bunching Onions (aka scallions) Cabbage Collard Greens Corn Cucumbers Mustard Greens June is also a good time to plant herb seeds, such as basil, as well, if you haven’t done so already. What to Plant in Late Summer Late summer (end of July until late August, depending on your region) is the time to plant a new crop of cool weather vegetables to enjoy through the fall and beyond. If it remains really hot where you live at that time, for best results, you should try to cool down the soil to facilitate germination. You can do this by shading the planting area and keeping it moist for a few days before planting. Or, you can start the seeds indoors and transplant them outdoors when it starts to cool down a bit. Here are some good choices for late summer planting: Carrots Cauliflower Broccoli Radishes Peas Lettuce and Spinach As fall progresses, be prepared to protect these late-season planted crops from frost with row covers. As mentioned above, most leafy greens can tolerate light frosts, and some of the other vegetables listed above can even tolerate air temperatures well below freezing, but you’re better safe than sorry. Gardeners are passionate about maximizing their homegrown vegetable crops so they can stave off the necessity of buying supermarket vegetables as long as possible. Staggered or succession planting is not hard to do with a bit of planning and is the best way to prolong your growing season, in the absence of, say, a greenhouse (more on that).

You can go about creating new garden beds any time of year as long as the ground isn’t frozen or too wet. The most obvious time to do this is in the fall or early spring to get ready for spring planting. As you ponder the design of your garden, consider creating raised garden beds as they have a number of advantages over ground level beds. While building raised beds requires some extra effort, there will be a payoff in terms of eased maintenance and a potentially more bountiful harvest. Why Build a Raised Garden Bed? Most vegetable plants are not hard to grow as long as you take care to meet all the plants’ needs. This includes plenty of direct sunlight; warm, circulating air; just the right amount of water; and rich, well-drained soil containing the essential nutrients for your particular crops. Unlike other types of plants, such as common varieties of flowers, for example, many vegetable plants are unforgiving and won’t thrive in marginal growing conditions. Well-Drained Soil While you can’t control the weather, you can increase your chances of success by siting the garden in a favorable, sunny spot and creating a raised bed to provide a superior growing ecosystem. An important function of a raised bed is that it allows water to be absorbed into the soil, with any excess able to drain away. That means water is unlikely to accumulate around the plants’ roots, causing them to rot. Standing water is a common problem with ground level beds, especially where the soil is made up of heavy clay and/or it rains a lot. Enriched, Custom Soil Mix Another important function of a raised bed, related to the above, is that it provides an opportunity to create a custom soil mix containing just the right proportions of compost, screened topsoil and any other amendments appropriate for your plants and climate. For example, if you live in an arid part of the country, you’ll want to create a heavier soil mix designed to retain moisture—and vice versa in a wet climate. You can also amend the soil mix to adjust its pH to your planned crop(s). And, given that the soil is contained within the bed walls, the possibility of erosion is eliminated. Given the raised bed’s position off the cold ground, a nice side effect is that the soil warms up more quickly in the spring and stays warmer longer in the fall, effectively extending your growing season. Many vegetable seeds germinate only when the soil temperature is above 70° Fahrenheit, which may only be achievable in early spring by use of a raised bed. Ease of Planting, Mulching, Weeding and Pest Management Raised beds are also user-friendly! Obviously, they make it easier to plant, weed, and mulch because they’re easier to reach. But, they also result in fewer weeds since they can’t easily encroach from the surrounding lawn the way they can on a ground-level bed. Similarly, they make it harder for certain pests, such as slugs and snails, to reach your crops. Raised Bed Garden Design Considerations While a raised garden beds can be any size or shape, there are practical considerations to their layout: you should be able to easily tend to your plants from either side of the bed. For this reason, 4 feet is a common width. Length, of course, can vary, but 8 feet is also common. And, if you have the space, you can create multiple beds to grow more crops. The depth of the raised bed is of paramount importance in order to give your plants’ roots the space to grow. Depending on your crop selection, the bed should be at least 8 inches deep; 12 inches would be ideal. But, keep in mind, the deeper your raised bed, the more soil you need to fill it. By the way, it’s a good idea to break up, loosen and weed the soil underneath before you put the raised bed to reduce competition from weeds growing up from below. Laying down a base of weed-suppressing landscape fabric provides additional insurance. As for your plants’ layout within the garden, there are some other practical considerations. For example, it’s advisable to plant taller plants on the north side of the garden so they won’t block sunlight from reaching the smaller plants. Similarly, if you’re planting a crop that requires trellising or support, such as beans or tomatoes, it would be better to place them north of lower-profile crops. On the other hand, if you’re planting cool-loving leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach or chard, you might want to strategically place taller plants such as corn on their southside to block scorching late afternoon summer sun. Easy Raised Garden Bed Ideas There is a variety of material you can use to create raised garden beds; a quick look online will confirm that gardeners have come up with a number of creative ideas. Of course, the most obvious solution may be to use rot-resistant lumber boards joined together with screws or bolts. But other common materials such as cinder blocks, bricks, logs, and large rocks can work as well. Use your imagination! But remember, whatever material you use should be long-lasting and safe.You don’t want to use anything that might leach dangerous chemicals into the soil that could be absorbed by your crops. To fend off ravenous animal pests, you may want to incorporate some protective fencing into the garden bed’s design. To keep out burrowing critters such as moles and gophers, raised beds should be constructed with a bottom layer of wire mesh netting material. To protect your crops from birds and insects you can easily attach some PVC pipe ‘hoops’ to your raised garden bed walls as a framework for netting. You can use this same framework with clear plastic sheeting, to turn the bed into a cool weather ‘hoop house’ in order to extend your growing season.

While it’s probably wrong to assume that everyone who becomes a gardener, does so because of an overriding concern for the environment and a desire to reduce their carbon footprint. But, we’re pretty sure that, as time goes on, most avid gardeners—if you didn’t feel that way before—develop a profound respect and appreciation for the natural world, along with a desire to protect it. Even if you simply start out planting a few annuals each year, you quickly start to notice things in the environment you probably never really paid close attention to before: weather, soil condition, insect life, the habits of plant-eating predators (!), and more. Along the way, you may start to appreciate, first hand, that there is a harmonious balance in nature that can go awry with heedless human interference. While we are not interested in lecturing anyone (no soapbox in sight) about what you should and should not do in your own backyard, we would like to share some helpful information with those of you who are interested in simple, sustainable gardening practices. These practices will not only benefit the environment, they will increase your chances of gardening success. The Big Picture: Reducing Your Carbon Footprint Starting with a big picture perspective, implementing a sustainable gardening plan will help reduce your carbon footprint (i.e. reduce your carbon emissions into the atmosphere, otherwise known as greenhouse gas emissions). And, you don’t need a lot of space to do your part; you can help by growing environmentally-friendly plants in containers on a porch, patio or even a fire escape! Composting Whatever you decide to grow, the most important element of an eco-friendly gardening plan is composting as much food and yard waste as possible for use in your garden. This is far preferable to having it hauled—by a carbon-spewing conveyance—to rot in a landfill where it will end up emitting methane and nitrous oxide into the atmosphere. Composting is simply the process of mixing natural organic yard waste such as dead leaves or grass clippings with non-meat food waste in a designated area or container, and allowing for aerobic decomposition (vs. the anaerobic process that typically occurs in plastic bags relegated to landfills). Over time, this mixture develops into a nutrient-rich stew which can be used to amend your soil to help your plants thrive, in lieu of synthetic fertilizers. There are various ways to compost; we explore ‘lasagna composting’ in our Lasagna Gardening post. For apartment dwellers, we admit that you would be hard-pressed to create your own compost. As an alternative, you can buy organic compost from your local garden center. Organic Gardening For some people, the term, organic gardening, suggests something complicated or time-consuming. This is not the case. It simply involves using natural substances and methods to grow your vegetables: natural compost instead of synthetic fertilizers, and natural pest and weed control instead of pesticides and herbicides. Organic gardening is more sustainable over the long run because it preserves—and, indeed, takes advantage of—the living world’s natural balance. Watering Tips Even if you live in a part of the country not affected by drought, judicious use of water is important for your plants as well as the environment. Whether you’re connected to a municipal water supply or a well, transporting that water for use in your household taps requires carbon-producing energy. The less water you can use, the better. Here are some ways to optimize your use of water in the garden: Water your plants in the morning, before it gets really hot, in order to minimize waste through evaporation. Morning watering reduces the threat of plant disease as well. Most plants do best with a deep watering every few days vs. more frequent shallow watering. Use of a soaker hose or drip irrigation system is recommended in order to avoid wasting water and splashing potentially-damaging microbes from the soil onto the plant leaves. Use a rain barrel or other container to collect rainwater. Channel rainwater away from the house and toward the garden. Redirect it from areas where it might otherwise pool and run-off without being absorbed into the ground. Growing Plants With a Purpose Many people become gardeners because they like the way flowers look and smell and want to beautify their yards. Others have an interest in growing their own food. And, of course, many people do both, taking advantage of the natural symbioses between flowering and vegetable plants. Create a Pollinator Garden There are a number of flowering plants that are attractive not only to humans but to important pollinators as well. Planting for successive bloom through the growing season ensures a ready supply of sustenance. Please do your homework and learn which flowers provide the most nourishment for bees, hummingbirds, butterflies and other pollinators. Old-fashioned, native, heirloom varieties are a safe bet as they tend to produce more nectar than modern hybrids Grow What you Eat These days, many people are understandably interested in growing their own food—and it’s not hard to do if you start simply and choose vegetables and/or herbs that are relatively easy to grow (as outlined in our Growing Guides). And, again, you don’t need a lot of space, as most crops can be grown in containers. An important tactic when growing vegetables is rotating crops every couple of years to try to keep pests and disease at bay. Another effective way to ward off pests is by planting pest-repelling flowers, such as french marigolds, among your vegetables. Other Eco-Friendly Garden and Yard Ideas Plant Trees (to purify the air and provide a home for wildlife) Reduce your lawn area if possible. As alluring as a nice, green lawn is, it consumes an inordinate amount of water and fertilizer and isn’t particularly attractive to wildlife. You could plant ground cover or wildflowers instead. Try to avoid widespread tilling of your garden beds: it’s disruptive to the soil structure and doesn’t offer tangible benefits. And, as always, as much as possible: reduce, recycle and reuse. In this fast-paced, ever-changing world, it sometimes feels like we have very little control over important issues that affect our daily lives. But you can do your own, small part to help the environment by planting some seeds and shepherding your plants naturally.

Just because you live in an apartment or other space that doesn’t have a yard, it doesn’t mean you can’t grow your own outdoor summer flowers, herbs or vegetables. It just means you need to be a bit creative in how you go about doing it, particularly if you’re in a congested urban environment, like New York City, for example. If you live near a community garden with available space, that may be an easy solution, especially if you are also seeking camaraderie from fellow gardeners. Otherwise, you need to consider container gardening in or proximate to your living space. Don’t let the fact that you may be new to the world of gardening scare you. Anybody can grow just about anything, armed with a little knowledge and confidence. And while full sunlight is crucial for many plants, though there are some beautiful shade-loving varieties you can grow instead. However, what’s not optional is water; plants need water, though there are self-watering containers available which can ease the burden on those with busy schedules. So, how to get started? Following are few pointers. Where to Grow the Garden? Before you can decide what to grow, you need to figure out what space and conditions you have available for that purpose. Possibilities include: Terrace or porch Fire escape Windows that support flower boxes. Roof top Walkway/alleyway Outside wall space If you have multiple options, it makes sense to choose the sunniest spot to maximize your plant possibilities. Please be aware that exposed, windy locations are not ideal. What do you Want to Grow? Next, what do you want to grow in the space available? Here are a few examples of favorite plants that are easy to grow in pots—sorted by different light conditions. Bear in mind there are thousands of plants from which to choose, depending on where you live, so you should do your own research and due diligence to learn more. If possible, you may also want to consider flowering plants that attract pollinators important to our environment. Full Sun (more than 6 hours/day) Herbs: Basil, rosemary, cilantro, thyme, oregano, dill, sage Veggies & Fruit: Tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, spinach, cucumbers, radishes, kale Annual Flowers: Geraniums, daisies, marigolds, sunflowers, blanket flowers, zinnias, asters Note: “Cool weather” leafy plants such as lettuce, arugula and chard can be grown in an area that doesn’t quite get full sun. Lettuce prefers coolish temperatures and grows best in spring and fall. Partial Sun (3-4 hours/day) Herbs: Parsley, mint, chives Veggies & Fruits: Blueberries, alpine strawberries, Annual Flowers: Nasturtiums, snapdragons, forget-me-not, baby blue eyes, bachelor’s buttons Full Shade Colorful Plants & Flowers: Coleus, hydrangea, ivy, fuchsia Whatever venue and plants you choose, we recommend starting out small at first so you have a manageable inventory of plants to care for, increasing your chances for success. In addition, you should take notes and snap photos so you can learn from your mistakes and build on your knowledge next spring. One thing you might want to consider is planting a succession of early, mid and late season “crops”, thereby ensuring a pleasing steady harvest schedule. Check out our popular herb and vegetable collections for additional ideas. Choosing Containers for Plants You’re undoubtedly familiar with the ubiquitous terra cotta planters you see everywhere and might be tempted to use them yourself. While we agree they’re certainly attractive, we think there are better, choices which won’t dry out as quickly and aren’t as heavy. Containers made out of wood are also attractive and don’t dry out like terra cotta, but they are relatively heavy as well and don’t last over time. A good alternative is recycled plastic containers designed to look like ceramic or fabric pots. It should go without saying that the container should have drainage holes in the bottom and should have an appropriately sized saucer underneath to retain and return excess water. As mentioned earlier in this piece, there are self-watering container systems available which make a lot of sense, particularly for people with erratic schedules. Using them, not only do you ensure your plants’ roots get consistent moisture, you can avoid overwatering which can be as problematic as letting plants dry out. Depending on what plants you have decided to grow, the size and shape of your containers is very important. Vegetables require larger, deeper containers; herbs can be planted in smaller containers. Lettuce is very shallow-rooted so it would be best in a shallow, broad container. The bigger the better, is our recommendation, depending on your space limitations. Instructions printed on your seed packets provide information on the plants’ space requirements. It’s a fun—and helpful way to discourage pests in some cases—to mix plants together, but make sure you do your homework first. For example, you can plant basil in with your tomatoes to repel flies and mosquitoes. Any herbs work well to protect lettuce as well. Some veggies don’t go well together, however, such as carrots and fennel. Potting Soil & Fertilizer For best results, use a commercial organic potting mix designed to retain moisture, with a some compost mixed in. You will also need to add some fertilizer at planting time; we recommend a granular, all purpose organic formulation. From there on out, the plants will benefit from weekly feedings with a water soluble fertilizer. Remember, planting in containers is different than planting in soil that has been enriched by native organic material and organisms; you are the sole supplier of necessary nutrients to the container. Container Gardening: Pleasing Payoff Container gardening sounds cool and looks cool when you see or hear about other people doing it. And, once you have planted a few containers of your own, you will realize that it IS cool—and very gratifying. The feeling of being able to grow some of your own food is hard to put in words—maybe because it touches some primal urge, or at least elicits a measure of indescribable pride.