Bentley Seed Co. Blog

Victory Gardens of Today - Once a staple of American resilience & sustainability during wartime, the Victory Garden of the early & mid-20th century has evolved to meet a very current approach toward self-sufficiency & a healthier way of life. Learn more in our most recent blog about how you can grow good food in any whatever space you may have available.

The Monarch Butterfly in the Northeast: A Fragile Beauty The Northeast region of the United States is home to many unique and beautiful butterfly species, including the iconic Monarch butterfly. These vibrant orange and black insects are renowned for their long-distance migrations and crucial role in the ecosystem. Sadly, Monarch populations are declining rapidly across North America, and one of the primary factors contributing to this decline is the disappearance of their primary food source: milkweed. The Milkweed Crisis: A Threat to Monarch Survival Native milkweed species throughout the Northeast, and indeed across the country, are facing severe decline. Herbicides and pesticides employed in large-scale agriculture are decimating these once-thriving plants. Additionally, habitat destruction due to development encroaching on natural areas is further reducing available milkweed growth. Climate change and extreme weather patterns also play a role in affecting milkweed availability. Without milkweed, the very survival of Monarch butterfly populations hangs in the balance. The Vital Role of Milkweed: A Butterfly’s Haven Milkweed holds paramount importance for the Monarch butterfly as it is the only plant on which they lay their eggs. Milkweed leaves contain cardenolides, a chemical toxic to most animals, but not to Monarch larvae. This inherent toxicity serves as a protective shield for the delicate eggs. Once hatched, the larvae ingest the milkweed, accumulating the cardenolides within their own bodies, making them unpalatable and even poisonous to potential predators. This protective mechanism, known as aposematism, allows the Monarch larvae to develop their signature bright coloration, warning predators of their toxicity. Northeast Milkweed Varieties: A Crucial Food Source The Northeast region supports a diverse range of milkweed species critical for Monarch butterfly conservation. The most prevalent species throughout the region is the Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), thriving along roadsides and in open fields. For wetter habitats such as wetlands, the Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) provides vital sustenance. Another important variety is the Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa), found in open fields and grassy meadows. These various species collectively represent a crucial food source for Monarch butterflies in the Northeast. Conservation Efforts: Protecting Milkweed and Saving Monarchs Fortunately, a dedicated effort is underway to protect native milkweed and restore its dwindling populations throughout the Northeast. Numerous conservation organizations are actively working to create Monarch butterfly habitats by planting regionally appropriate milkweed and other indigenous plants. These crucial efforts are essential for ensuring the survival of these beautiful pollinators and maintaining healthy ecosystems. How You Can Help: Actions for a Sustainable Future Beyond the work of dedicated organizations, individuals can also play a vital role in protecting milkweed and supporting pollinator populations in the Northeast. One of the most impactful actions you can take is to avoid using pesticides and herbicides in your gardens and yards. These chemicals harm not only milkweed but also other vital plants and insects. Instead, opt for organic or natural methods of pest and weed control. Planting native milkweed in your gardens and community areas is another powerful way to make a difference. Bentley Seeds now offers a diverse selection of native varieties specifically suited for your Northeast gardens and yards. By creating vibrant habitats with milkweed and other suitable plants, you can directly contribute to the preservation of the Monarch butterfly and its vital role in our ecosystem. Together, through proactive conservation efforts and individual action, we can ensure the continued existence of the remarkable Monarch butterfly in the Northeast and beyond. By protecting their essential milkweed habitat, we safeguard not only a stunning species but also the health and balance of our natural world. Monarch Butterfly on Swamp Milkweed in Saratoga Springs in August 2022

Planting milkweed and creating sanctuary habitats for Monarch butterflies is critical in preserving this beautiful species. By taking action to support milkweed and Monarch butterflies, we can make a difference in their conservation and contribute to the biodiversity of native plants across the country.

When it comes to gardening, one of the critical factors for success is to consider your climate. Different plants have different temperature and weather preferences, and what will thrive in one region will struggle or die in another. To help gardeners understand the unique characteristics of their local climate, the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) has developed a system of gardening zones to differentiate the growing seasons in various regions across the country.

Final cool-weather veggies harvested? Check! Garden put to bed for the season? Check, check! Now it’s time to get your compost winterized before it gets any colder. Discover 3 simple steps to make it easy to protect your precious compost through the winter!

In the last few years there has been a lot of chatter about hydroponics gardening, a method of growing plants without soil. Growers discovered a long time ago that some plants grow better in water than in soil. In fact, plants only need sunlight, water, and nutrients to photosynthesize; nutrients don’t necessarily have to come from soil. Today, many of the vegetables we buy at the store—including vine tomatoes—are grown hydroponically. Why, then, you might ask, does conventional wisdom dictate that gardeners grow plants in soil? There are pros and cons to each method, as discussed below. First, we provide a brief tutorial on hydroponic growing to enable a better understanding of how it differs from growing plants in soil. What is Hydroponic Gardening? Hydroponic gardening entails growing plants in a liquid solution consisting of water and nutrients (fertilizer)—in place of nutrients typically found in rich soil—along with an inert medium to serve as an anchor to support the roots. The growing medium delivers the necessary moisture and oxygen that allow the plants to grow.  Note that there is a particular type of hydroponics system, called aeroponics, that doesn’t use a growing medium; it only uses a liquid solution (described below). For a conventional hydroponics system, there are all kinds of inert growing media that can be used. Popular material include rockwool, grow rock, perlite, coco fiber or chips, vermiculite, pine shavings or bark, gravel, and sand. The key characteristics of a good growing medium is that it won’t decay and break down quickly and won’t absorb so much liquid that it becomes soggy. Roots need to be moist but not soaked; otherwise they’ll rot. Types of Hydroponics Hydroponic systems come in two general forms: passive or non-recovery, and active or recovery. In one type of passive or non-recovery system, the nutrient solution is absorbed by one or more wicks or by the growing medium. You can’t cycle or reuse the solution; it’s in the medium. In active or recovery systems, a pump actively moves the solution. Here, a nutrient solution recirculates, much like water in a fish tank. Active systems tend to be more effective as they will consistently supply adequate oxygen to root systems and your plants will be more likely to reach their fullest potential. Passive systems can become water-logged wet and fail to provide enough oxygen. The Wick System In this passive, non-recovery system, the nutrient solution travels, by way of capillary action, from the reservoir to the roots through a wick—candle or lantern wicks work great. This system is inexpensive and simple to set-up and maintain. However, passive systems run the risk of keeping the growing medium too wet and, thus, are not the most efficient manner of hydroponics. The Ebb And Flow System This active system uses a submersible pump to move the nutrient solution into a tray positioned above the reservoir which holds the plants. When turned on, the pump fills the tray until liquid levels reach an overflow pipe and drain into the reservoir. Typically, the grower keeps the pump on for about a half-hour (one “flood cycle”). After the flood cycle, solution will drain back down through the pump. During flooding, stale air is removed from the roots by the rising nutrient solution. When the nutrient solution drains, oxygenated air is pulled into the growing medium. The results are well-oxygenated roots ready to maximize nutrient absorption. The Ebb and Flow system works best with rockwool or grow rocks as a medium and is a highly effective system, overall, and simple to maintain. Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) NFT is an active system using a pump and recirculated solution. Here, the pump pushes solution into a grow-tube in which the roots are suspended. This tube is angled so the solution washes the roots and falls back into the reservoir. This can be done all day, every day. Roots still need oxygen, so grow-tubes are often filled with capillary matting or air stones (typically used in fish aquariums). The plants are supported by collars or in a grow-basket. No grow medium is used in this system, which is highly effective. However, because the system lacks a growing medium, any significant interruption to the root wash can result in dried-out roots which could be the death of your plants. Continuous Drip Another active system, the continuous drip system, uses a pump and supply lines to each plant. Each line typically uses a drip emitter, which can regulate the amount of solution each plant receives. A drip tray beneath the plants catches the solution and returns it to the reservoir. Continuous Drip systems work best with rockwool, but any medium can be used to good results due to the degree of control gardeners have thanks to the drip emitters.  Advantages of Hydroponics Plants grown hydroponically have been shown to mature 30-50 times faster than plants grown in soil—a significant difference Along with a faster grow time, hydroponic plants will typically have a greater yield, possibly due to extra oxygen in the various growing media that stimulate root growth. If your roots are getting more oxygen, they’re able to absorb nutrients more quickly. And when mixed with water, root systems are directly fed—there’s no need for the roots to “search out” nutrients from soil. Consequently, the plant doesn’t need to expend as much energy to get the food it needs. In turn, all that excess energy is routed into growing faster, and with better yields. A smaller root footprint means more plants per square foot leading to increased yields (an important point if you’re growing in constrained space, like indoors). Since hydroponic growing is easiest to do indoors, you’re not susceptible to the vagaries of the weather and can grow plants year round. An added and important advantage of hydroponic plants is they have fewer issues with pests, fungi, and disease since they’re grown in a controlled, more hygienic environment. Disadvantages of hydroponics gardening Potential cost of equipment Hydroponically grown plants typically require more care and attention than their conventional, soil-grown brethren. DIY Hydroponics GARDENING SYSTEM While you can buy a hydroponics kit, you can also create your own DIY passive system for a fraction of the cost of buying a kit. There are various online resources to help you get started, depending on the volume of plants you hope to grow. Basically, though, you’ll need the following: Watertight growing container(s) Some type of growing medium—there are plenty of inexpensive or free options, some of which were listed above Hydroponics gardening nutrient mix—you can buy a premixed solution or create your own. The latter requires some research to make sure you deliver the necessary nutrients to your particular plants  Clean water If you’re growing plants indoors, you’ll need adequate sunlight or artificial grow lights Related to the last point listed above, growing plants successfully indoors—whether via conventional or hydroponics gardening means—is challenging, particularly when it comes to ensuring they get enough light. Unless you have a greenhouse or an indoor garden area in front of large south-facing windows, you will have to invest in grow lights. You also need to manage the ambient air temperature and humidity. In winter in northern climes, to make sure it’s not too hot, cold, or dry. Growing Plants Hydroponically — From Seed One of the best things about growing plants from seed is that you can choose the EXACT variety you want; you’re not at the mercy of your local nursery’s stock choices. In addition, seeds cost very little, compared to the plant starts you can buy at the store. Combining the benefits of growing plants from seed and growing plants hydroponically is a win-win. Once again, you will need to do your research to help ensure your success. Seeds are very sensitive and need just the right amount of light, heat, moisture, and oxygen in order to germinate and grow. Also, choose carefully which plants you want to grow. If you’re planning to grow vegetables, we recommend starting with ones that are easy to grow such as leafy greens like lettuce or spinach or herbs. Once you’ve done that successfully, you can branch out into other green delicacies. In recent years, as consumers become more interested in where their food comes from, there has been increased interest in hydroponics as a sustainable method of gardening in small spaces. It’s not a new method of growing crops; it’s been around through the millennia. With good reason: it works.

What is Mulch? Mulch refers to different types of protective material gardeners spread on top of garden soil. Many people use natural, organic material such as compost, shredded wood, wood chips, pine bark, leaves, or straw because they offer an additional benefit of returning nutrients to the soil as they decompose. Newspaper and cardboard are also good mulch material that decompose over time. People also use inorganic materials such as landscape fabric, plastic, or stone, or some combination thereof to ease maintenance and fight particularly stubborn, invasive weeds. Consult any gardening expert and you will hear about the benefits of mulch. Mulch is a key element for successful gardening: it helps keeps the soil cool and moist in the heat of summer, and insulates against the cold in early spring and fall. Mulch also suppresses weeds that compete for precious resources such as water and nutrients and helps prevent soil compaction and erosion. If you’ve done your research, you probably already know by now that you need to mulch. But, what may not be clear is how—exactly—to go about applying mulch. And, what should the mulch be made of? Where should you get it? When should you mulch? What else do you need to know about mulch? We have some answers to help you get started. Which Type of Mulch is Best? Generally, we recommend using organic mulch since it decomposes naturally and supports the ecosystem.Therein lies the rub, though: since it decomposes, it must be replenished regularly—which in many cases would be at the start (and maybe the finish—more on this later) of the gardening season each year. While that may sound like a lot of work to the uninitiated, remind yourself that you didn’t take up gardening because it was easy… procuring and spreading a fresh layer of mulch every year is just part of the job. The effort is well worth it, in terms of decreased maintenance and better plant growing outcomes and a natural garden aesthetic. So, the question becomes which type of organic mulch do you use? There are many options, a few of which we listed above. Among the most common are shredded wood, wood chips or pine bark: they’re relatively inexpensive and easy to obtain. They also do a good job protecting your garden plants and suppressing weeds, though they don’t return as many nutrients to the soil as some other organic materials. Shredded fallen leaves make excellent mulch if they’re dense enough to remain in place and you don’t mind the way they look. Otherwise, you could add a thin layer of shredded wood, wood chips, or pine bark on top of them. As we mentioned above, you can use everyday household materials such as discarded moistened newspaper and cardboard which are safe for the garden and decompose naturally—though more slowly than the organic materials mentioned above. Arguably more unattractive than leaf waste, you could also camouflage and weight them down with a thin layer of wood mulch or straw. Where to Get Garden Mulch Wood based-mulch and straw are generally readily available from local and commercial sources. For mulching small areas, you can buy wood product mulch in two-cubic-foot bags from your local garden supply store. For larger areas (and to avoid all that plastic) you can also buy mulch in bulk, sold by the cubic yard. One cubic yard of mulch is equivalent to 13.5 bags of mulch. There are also likely sources of free wood mulch near where you live. If you live in an area where there are a lot of trees, there is undoubtedly ongoing tree work which produces a plentiful supply of leftover wood chips. Many municipalities stockpile wood chips for use by local residents. Otherwise, you might contact local commercial tree services and find out if they have a supply of free wood chips to give to a good home. (If so, you will probably have to pick up a load yourself from their premises unless you can cajole them into dumping a load in your yard if/when they’re in your area). You can also ask your neighbors if they have any to spare. How Much Mulch Do I Need? For best results, spread a three-inch layer of mulch over your garden soil. If you’re dealing with an existing garden with mulch that simply needs refreshing, then add however much is needed to bring the mulch thickness to three inches. In either case, that raises the question of how much mulch you’ll need to procure in total. To figure that out you need to get at least a rough idea of how many square feet of garden area to cover—obviously, a tape measure is a handy tool for this purpose. Then, multiply the total garden area square footage by the inches of mulch depth needed to come up with the total amount. You’ll then need to convert the total feet to cubic yards. Don’t worry if you’re not a math whiz!  ‘Mulch Calculators’ abound on the internet and will do the work for you. Alternatively, any commercial garden supplier should know how to do the conversion and tell you how much mulch to buy. Here’s a quick reference chart outlining how much mulch you would need for a 4’ x 10’ garden bed: 4’ x 10’ = 40 square feet 40 x 3 inches/mulch = 120 square feet of mulch needed Mulch is typically sold at garden supply stores in 2 cubic foot bags. For the garden size outlined above, you would need to buy 15 bags of mulch. For larger areas, you can buy mulch in bulk — by the cubic yard — but many bulk mulch suppliers require a 3-yard minimum for delivery. 3-yards of mulch at 3 inches deep would cover 324 square feet of garden area. How to Mulch? Once you’ve gotten ahold of some mulch, you can spread it on your garden beds, at will. There’s no way of getting around the fact that mulching is a physical-labor-intensive process. Obviously, having a sturdy wheelbarrow and good garden gloves and garden implements will help. You can spread the mulch in stages; it doesn’t have to be done all at once. The tricky part is being sure to spread the mulch evenly throughout your garden beds. And be sure not to pile up mulch high against the base of your plants; that may cause them to rot. Leave a tiny bit of space around the plant stalks. When is the Best Time to Mulch? The best time to mulch is in mid-spring before the weeds have a chance to gain a foothold in your garden. Don’t mulch too early in the spring while the ground is still really cold or you may end up delaying or preventing your perennials’ re-emergence by trapping cold moisture in the soil. Spring is a busy time so don’t worry if you don’t get to it until after the arrival of summer. Like many things in life, applying garden mulch will be better late than never. In some areas of the country, gardeners apply a thin layer of mulch in the fall to provide extra winter protection for their plant roots, especially newly-established plants. The mulch layers should never be more than three inches, so be sure to add extra mulch judiciously. Once you’ve done it, you’ll realize there’s really not much to mulching your garden beds—except for the physical labor, that is. The trick is sourcing high quality, inexpensive mulch and figuring how much you need in the first place. You will find that the effort is well worth it.

Fall is a great time not only to plan for spring planting, but also for garden preparation including the design and creation of any new beds you’ve been thinking about. Advanced planning and preparation will give you a jump start on planting seeds in early spring to maximize the growing season for all those gorgeous plants you’ve been fantasizing about. Before you start, following are some key considerations important for garden success. What to plant in your new garden? Do you want to plant flowers or herbs and vegetables or some combination thereof? Based on your answer to the above, do you know how much space you need? Depending on the magnitude of your desired floral display or the volume and variation of vegetables, it will help to map out how much space each plant will require and plot the dimensions of the garden bed accordingly. Your seed supplier can provide guidelines on plant spacing. Where will the new garden bed be located? Many plants need at least six hours of sunlight, including most vegetables. Do you have a sunny spot in your yard large enough to accommodate your new garden as envisioned above? Is the new garden plot in reasonable proximity to a water source? It needs to be convenient or else you’ll be tempted to skip the regular watering necessary for your plants’ optimum health. Supplemental watering may be particularly important for raised beds, depending on your climate and weather. Speaking of which, you need to decide whether you’re going to go to the extra effort to create a raised garden bed; if so, we have provided some guidance below. Otherwise, we recommend you test your soil to see what sort of amendments it may need, for best results. Raised Garden Beds Raised garden beds offer advantages over ground level beds including: They allow you to use a rich, custom soil mix They allow for better drainage Elevated soil warms up sooner in the spring and stays warmer longer in the fall They’re easier to maintain both because they don’t allow adjacent lawn to encroach and they’re easier to reach for planting and weeding. If you’re unfamiliar with raised garden beds, you can think of them like large immovable ‘containers’ set up semi-permanently in one spot in your yard. They are typically square or rectangular in shape with a depth of at least 6” to accommodate plant roots. A rectangular shape provides for a larger garden since the bed should be no wider than 3’ for ease of use. There are practically endless ways to design raised garden beds. While the sides of the ‘containers’ can be made out of a wide variety of materials, many people make them using lumber planks—stacked 2 x 4’s, for example. If this is what you plan to do, it’s important to choose untreated rot-resistant wood for this purpose, particularly if you’re planning to grow vegetables. Over time, pressure-treated lumber will leach harmful chemicals into the soil which, in turn, will be absorbed by your plants’ roots, which, in turn, when end up in your body when you consume the vegetables. In any event, there is plenty of information online about other materials you can use to make raised beds and how to construct them. Preparing the Garden Area—Removing the Grass If you’re creating a ground level garden bed out of lawn, the first thing you have to do is remove the grass where the bed is supposed to be. There are different approaches for removing grass sod once you’ve marked off the dimensions of your garden: Obviously, you can simply dig it up with a shovel. There are pros and cons to doing this. On the pro side, it will provide quick results, allowing you to proceed with the preparation of your garden bed. On the other hand, digging up sod is backbreaking work and not for the faint of heart. It helps to water the area a few days ahead of time to moisten (not soak!) the soil to loosen it up. If you’re creating a large bed, it might make sense to rent a mechanical sod cutter. This method will strip away organic nutrients from the soil, along with the sod, however, which means you will have to add it back in via additional compost and other rich organic material. Use a heavy duty rototiller (with a rear tine). This may also be hard work and may require more than one pass. The advantage of rototilling is the sod gets turned under—rather than removed, leaving organic matter in the soil. The bad news is that weeds get turned under also and will undoubtedly make an appearance, stronger than ever, down the road. Or, if you’re prepared to wait awhile, you can smother the grass by covering the planned garden bed area with plastic, newspaper, cardboard or even a heavy dropcloth (weighing down the edges, of course) which will eventually kill the grass but leave the soil structure intact. You may be tempted to use herbicide but please don’t—it’s harmful to you and the environment. If you’re creating a raised bed that’s at least 8” deep, the grass will most likely die on its own, though you can add a layer of insurance—literally—by laying down biodegradable landscaping fabric first, before constructing the container, installing it in the footprint of the ‘container’. Preparing the Soil for Planting As mentioned above, if you’re creating a garden bed at ground level, even if it seems like your soil is good, it’s a good idea to have it tested to see if it’s missing key nutrients your plants will need. Your local Cooperative Extension Service office may be able to help with that or refer you to a soil testing service. Or, if you don’t want to bother with that, skip that step and add rich, organic matter such as compost, preemptively. If it’s heavy clay, you will want to mix in some lighter material such as peat moss as well, though you should be aware that it will lower your soil’s pH, which may or may not be a good thing depending on what you plan to grow. Thoroughly work the organic material into the soil, breaking up compacted clumps of dirt and clay. If you’re creating a raised bed, you need to fill it with a mixture of basic soil and rich organic material as described above. You can also mix in leaves and grass clippings. For either kind of bed, add a layer of mulch to protect the soil during the winter months. And, that’s it. Your garden bed will be ready for planting when it starts to warm up in the spring.

Winterizing Garden       As summer blossoms fade and the days become shorter, that means it’s time for gardeners to start preparing for the inevitable—WINTER. Depending on your point of view, and where you reside, you may or may not like the Farmers’ Almanac’s winter forecast for the U.S.: It may be cold and wet for much of the country, except in California and it’s neighboring states. Apparently, those of us who inhabit the area between the Great Lakes and the Northeast should prepare for “snowier-than-normal conditions.” (Editor’s note: UGH.) So, what to do to prepare for winter—both in order to ensure the survival of your perennials, as well as the health of the soil in the garden beds to get a running start in spring when the time comes to sow new plants—and when? For vegetable gardeners, we know it’s hard to think about winter while you’re still in the midst of dealing with your late summer harvest, but it’s a good idea to get a leg up on winter preparation before the weather turns. For example, now is the time to to clean up your vegetable beds, removing dead plants that will be a overwintering magnet for disease and insect pests. Add these dead plants to your compost pile, if you have the room. (Note: never add diseased or insect-plagued plants to your compost pile; dispose of them in the trash.) Some plants can remain: kale, cabbage, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cauliflower and radishes, vegetables in the brassica family that release cyanide compounds in early spring, killing off insect pests. And, speaking of compost, your soil will benefit from the addition of mature compost at this point, topped with a layer of fresh mulch in the form of shredded wood chips, straw or hay to protect it . Wait to apply mulch until it gets fairly cold outside, ensuring that unwanted critters, such as mice, have already found other cozy places to spend the winter. Kale Cabbage Broccoli Brussel Sprouts Cauliflower As for preparing your flower beds, once there has been a killing frost, pull up dead annuals and selectively cut back your perennials to 3”. Note that cutting these plants back too soon could compromise them by cutting off the foliage that feeds their roots. Leave the stalks of perennials with distinct seed heads intact, including black-eyed Susans, coneflowers, and sunflowers—they provide visual interest to your garden in the bleakness of winter, but more importantly, they provide essential food and sanctuary to birds and butterflies. Renew the mulch in your flower beds to maintain a 2-3 inch layer over the root system. Black Eyed Susan Purple Coneflower Sunflower Let’s face it. Most gardeners dread the end of summer and the gradual (or not, depending on where you live) onset of winter. We like to be outside planting and growing things; you can’t do that in winter—that is if you live in the northern half of the country. Still, winter does offer a silver lining to gardeners: really cold temperatures kill the insect pests that overwinter in the soil. While that may be all well and good, here’s hoping the Farmers’ Almanac winter forecast is wrong.

Let’s face it, weeds don’t have a good reputation—with good reason. Though some of them are quite attractive, they generally don’t behave well, showing up uninvited, stealing resources from your specimen plants, and quickly taking over the garden. Experienced gardeners understand the importance of staying ahead of the weeds by taking measures to discourage them in the first place, and vigilantly eradicating them the moment they appear. And, make no mistake, in spite of your best efforts, the weeds will appear; they’re purpose-built to endure and multiply quickly. While there are many chemical herbicides on the market that promise to eliminate them instantly, we favor natural ways to kill weeds. Pulling up weeds manually and/or using natural weed killer are not only safer for you and the environment, they’re more effective in the long run. Unfortunately there is no magical formula or method—chemical or natural—to get rid of weeds permanently. And, while there’s no question weeding is hard work, and a task most of us would love to avoid, along with, say, vacuuming and raking leaves, if you ignore the problem, it only gets harder over time. You best bet is to follow the lead of other successful gardeners and stay ahead of the weeds once you’ve established (or reclaimed) your garden. There are a number of tools that can make the job easier and lead to success, including: High quality gardening gloves Shovel or spade Trowel Weeder Compost and peat moss Avoiding Weeds in New Garden Beds When first creating a garden bed, it’s critical that you remove pre-existing grass (lawn) and weeds first. For purposes of this discussion, we include grass in our definition of weeds, as it’s pervasive and will make every effort to infiltrate your garden beds. Dig Them Up There are several ways to eliminate existing plant growth where you’re locating your new garden bed. The first method, which is also the most straightforward, is to dig up sod and weeds with a shovel or a spade. The argument for this approach is that you’ll be able to plant your garden immediately. But, the downside is, of course, that it can be back-breaking work. And, when you remove sod or a large volume of established weeds, you are also removing topsoil and other organic material. This soil should be replaced by a mixture of soil, peat moss and compost—both to ensure the health of your prospective plants, as well as to raise the level of the garden bed to ensure proper water drainage. Please note that moist (not soaking wet) soil makes it easier to pull weeds. Use a Rototiller Another approach is to use a rototiller to break up existing plant growth, and then remove the remaining clumps of grass or weeds by hand. The main advantages here are that you retain more organic matter in the soil and can plant your garden immediately. The downside to using a rototiller is that by deeply disturbing the soil, it can disrupt the soil’s ecosystem, reducing soil quality over time, and encouraging the growth of other types of weeds. Rototilling also releases carbon from the soil into the atmosphere, which isn’t good for plants or people. Smother Them A third method for removing grass and weeds is to smother them with newspaper, cardboard, or plastic securely anchored to the earth. Covering the plants cuts off their light and raises soil temperature causing them to die. This requires advance planning as it can take many months to accomplish. For most regions of the country, you would probably want to do this in the fall to be ready for spring planting. The downside is that in addition to having to wait to plant, smothering unwanted plants can destroy other organisms too. Removing Weeds From an Existing Garden Bed If, on the other hand, rather than trying to remove weeds to prepare for a new garden, you’re faced with the challenge of renovating an existing garden overgrown with weeds, you will have to consider some additional tactics. The same principles outlined above apply: there is no magical solution; only hard work. And, herbicides are not the answer, especially in a bed where you’re trying to preserve the existing plants. First, if it’s a big garden (or gardens), start small, working to reclaim one area at time. It’s helpful to remove the larger weeds, including unwanted tree and shrub seedlings, first, so it’s easier to see what you’re working with. You can start weeding an established garden at any time, though it’s easiest when the plants are small in early spring, removing them before they’ve had an opportunity to set seed (and reproduce!). Don’t be afraid to dig up and transplant perennial flowers, as well as shrubs and trees you want to keep. As a side note, regular dividing of perennials is important to maintain their vigor. Hand Weeding Tips To pull up the weeds by hand, use a trowel or weeder (dandelion fork) to loosen and remove the entire weed, roots and all. Some weeds, like dandelions and thistles, for example, have tap roots that are challenging to remove intact because they extend deep into the soil. But don’t be tempted to cut corners and leave some of the plant behind; the roots will regenerate and the plant will return with a vengeance. Particularly invasive weeds should be disposed of in the trash, not in the compost or yard debris pile, or they will recolonize wherever you deposit them (or elsewhere in your yard with the help of your local birds). Contact your local university extension service for information on the invasives in your region. Other Non-Toxic Weed Killers If you’re trying to reclaim a large garden, the sheer volume of weeds may seem too overwhelming to remove by hand, so you may want to resort to other natural remedies. You can attack the weeds’ foliage with non-toxic substances which may cause the plant to die. This can be effective, in limited quantities, for annual weeds; perennial weeds are tougher to kill. And, be careful not to inadvertently spray adjacent specimen plants you’re trying to preserve. Here are some ideas: Pour boiling water on the plants you want to destroy. Pour salt water on the plants. Note, do not resort to this remedy on a large scale or it may render your garden uninhabitable for plants. DIY herbicide using vinegar. Put some regular household vinegar in a sprayer bottle and aim at the weeds. For best results, apply on warm, sunny days (over 80° F). High volume and concentrations of vinegar are not eco-friendly. Blowtorch or radiant heat weeders—particularly useful for getting at weeds between walkway pavers. DO NOT do this if you live in a dry region prone to wildfires. If all those methods fail or don’t seem practical, another approach is to transplant the specimen plants temporarily to another open garden bed or containers and cover the bed with plastic for a few months to smother the weeds en masse. Or, if you live out in the country, borrow a neighbor’s goat for a day. Goats LOVE weeds. Once the Weeds are Gone… You need to move FAST planting your intended flowers and crops. Otherwise, the weeds will soon take over (again). And, be sure to apply a thick (2-3 inches) layer of mulch which will deter new weeds from germinating. Be sure to re-apply mulch every year. Dealing with weeds is a never-ending challenge that can seem daunting to the uninitiated. However, once you do it for awhile, you may find that it’s surprisingly satisfying. Also, it’s a great way to spend time outdoors getting some exercise. You’ll be surprised how much you learn about nature hanging out in the garden.

Starting out as a new gardener can seem like a daunting prospect since there’s so much to learn and do. You can increase your chances of success by mapping out a plan and organizing yourself with essential garden tools, equipment, and planting material. The plan doesn’t need to be perfect or cast in stone! You can change direction as you go along. There are very few hard and fast rules in the garden, aside from ensuring your plants have adequate sunlight, water, and well-drained soil containing nutrients. Regardless of which plants you decide to grow, and how you design your garden, you’re going to need the following garden tools before you get started: Garden Trowel A trowel is among the garden hand tools veteran gardeners typically always keep within close reach. It functions as a mini-shovel and is indispensable for digging small holes for planting seeds or transplanting seedlings, digging up weeds, and more. Garden Weeder Similarly, experienced gardeners always have a weeder close at hand. A weeder is necessary for unearthing stubborn, deep tap-rooted weeds like dandelions and thistles. It’s also handy for digging out weeds growing between pavers and other tight spaces where a trowel won’t fit. Garden Shears Garden shears—also known as hand pruners, secateurs or snips—are available with different sized and shaped blades, offering specialized functionality. Bypass pruners are the most common and your safest bet, if you’re unsure what you need. These are useful for pruning dead foliage and branches, deadheading spent flowers, harvesting vegetables and fruit, as well as cutting flowers for bouquets. Garden Shovel Also commonly known as a garden spade, this is another indispensable tool for gardeners. A shovel is useful for myriad chores in the garden, including turning over the soil and digging holes. Purists will tell you there’s an important distinction between shovels and spades having to do with their geometry: ‘a spade is for digging and a shovel is for scooping.’ Most experienced gardeners with yards are likely to own both. Garden Kneeler While not as common as the tools described, a garden kneeler is definitely a useful item to have on hand. It’s particularly important if you have painful joints or want to avoid developing them (!) The reality is that gardeners spend a lot of time on their knees which quickly becomes uncomfortable on the bare ground. A kneeler provides welcome relief in the form of easy, portable cushioning. Of course, there are many more tools available to help with your garden chores, and, over time, you’re likely to amass a sizeable collection, but it would be difficult to proceed without the ones listed above. Since you’ll always want to keep these tools handy, you must figure out a) where you’re going to store them when they’re not in use, and b) the easiest way to carry them around to have them on hand as you work in the yard or garden. Essential Planting Materials Though it depends on where you live and what kind of soil you have, you’re going to require some form of fertilizer, compost, peat moss, and mulch to have on hand to use as necessary. If your soil quality is really poor—consisting of heavy clay, for example—you may also want to acquire some enriched soil from a commercial supplier. Garden Tool Storage When considering garden tool and planting materials storage, it’s important to devise a system where they’re kept together, so you don’t have to waste time searching in different places for the right tool. Obviously, racks or shelves in a garage or storage shed work well for this purpose. Otherwise, if you’re limited for space, you’ll have to get creative. Best Way to Tote Garden Tools Around the Yard Devising a system for storing and transporting your gardening tools and materials around the yard may seem obvious or trivial to some, we can’t stress enough how important it is. Keeping up with gardening chores is not likely to be as overwhelming when these indispensable items are within ready reach. Options for carrying your tools around the yard as you go about your tasks include using a bucket, a toolbelt, a backpack, or a special coat or vest with pockets. For carrying planting material and larger tools, you can use a wheelbarrow or wagon, or a commercial storage caddy made especially for that purpose. Garden Planning & Design Many new gardeners are focused on the aesthetics of their garden design. While this makes perfect sense, it’s important to focus on designing a garden that’s also easy to maintain. That’s why we recommend—especially when you’re first starting out—to design a rectangular-shaped garden so you can easily access your plants from both sides. Of course, it’s crucial that your garden be located in a sunny area that’s not low-lying so that it collects water. If we’ve said it once, we’ve said it a hundred times: with few exceptions, plants HATE to have their roots in standing water. Drowning your plants is a surefire way to kill them. You can create raised beds if soil drainage is an issue in your yard. If you’re totally new to gardening and are nervous about where/how to plant, you can always acquire a few big containers and start with them. There are many benefits to container gardening, with having more control over your plant growing environment at the top of the list. Container gardening allows you to start slowly and build on your experience. And, since containers are portable, you can place them in strategic spots around your home for maximum effect. Much of the foregoing advice may seem like common sense to some, that is the essence of gardening: developing insight, based on experience, into what works and what doesn’t. We suspect that many people who have tried gardening without success, claiming they don’t have a green thumb, actually failed because of a lack of common (for gardeners, that is) sense and organization. Hopefully, this article helps steer new gardeners in the right direction.

For gardeners, mid-summer represents the first stage in the culmination of their efforts. Summer flowers are in spectacular bloom, and delectable early season herbs and vegetables are ready for harvest. However, there is still a long way to go. For gardeners, summer is a bit like a marathon: they must remain vigilant their summer crops don’t succumb to the ever-present triple-threat of drought, weeds and pests. And, it almost goes without saying that any proud gardener desires to keep everything looking its best, which, at times, can seem like a Sisyphean task. Following is a list of gardening tips for mid-summer maintenance, useful for both newly minted green thumbs as well as for experienced gardeners who may benefit from a refresher. For those of you with children, including them in these efforts is a good way to introduce them to gardening while they cavort at your side enjoying summer’s delights. Mulch: If you didn’t get a chance to mulch your plants at the beginning of the season, or if you only mulched them lightly, summer is the time to lay it down/add more. Mulch shields plant roots from the sun and prevents the soil from drying out. It can consist of various organic matter such as shredded wood or leaves, straw,or grass clippings. Not only do these materials help protect the plants, they enrich the soil as they decompose. Another good mulch material in common use is newspaper (non-glossy) which is really effective at keeping weeds at bay but also degrades over time. Annuals: remove and replace spring flowering annuals such as pansies which fade in the heat. Replace them with heat loving varieties such as zinnias, sunflowers or cosmos (pollinators will thank you). Annuals need water and constant nourishment to support their magnificent blooms, so we recommend applying a granular time-release fertilizer at planting and providing supplemental feedings regularly throughout the season via a liquid fertilizer. To encourage fullness and repeat flowering, deadhead annuals such as dahlias, marigolds, and snapdragons. Perennials: cut early season flowering perennials to the ground to encourage regrowth. Deadhead mid-season plants to encourage reblooming. Pinch (prune) late season perennials such as mums, sedums and asters, to create fuller, more visually-pleasing plants. Weeding: mid-summer is when weeds really hit their stride and proliferate endlessly. Do your best to stay ahead of them and pull them before they are able to set seed which would make life more difficult. For example, here’s a fun fact: did you know that a single dandelion can produce 2000 seeds in a year?!  Weeds steal moisture and nutrients from your plants and also attract pests. They’ve got to go. Mulch: If you didn’t get a chance to mulch your plants at the beginning of the season, or if you only mulched them lightly, now is the time to lay it down/add more. Mulch shields plant roots from the sun and prevents the soil from drying out. It can consist of various organic matter such as shredded wood or leaves, straw,or grass clippings. Not only do these materials help protect the plants, they enrich the soil as they decompose. Another good mulch material in common use is newspaper (non-glossy) which is really effective at keeping weeds at bay but also degrades over time. Watering: Obviously, keeping your plants from drying out is really important, but the way you do it is also important for the health of your plants. Water deeply every few days (vs. every day) to encourage deep root systems. There are some plants, such as astilbe and hydrangea, that should be monitored as they are particularly susceptible to drying out. Pests: Keep an eye out for damaging insects and fungal diseases and eradicate them before them can do much harm. Some of these pests, such as Japanese beetles, are easy to spot and deal with, but others are more insidious. We recommend trying to eliminate pests naturally and avoiding toxic chemicals. Harvest Early Summer Crops: It’s important to harvest early season crops as soon as they have matured as they will not be at their best if you let them languish. Lettuce and other salad greens will bolt and become bitter if you don’t harvest them in time. Plant Fall Crops: Summer is the time for gardeners who live in zone 4-6 to plant crops for fall harvest. Good choices include lettuce, arugula (make sure these leafy greens are not in a full sun location in the mid-summer’s heat), broccoli, kale, spinach and cilantro. Root vegetables may also be a good choice. Be sure to turn the soil and add fertilizer before planting new crops. Occasionally, depending on the region in which you live, there are periods when summer can go all wrong. It can be cool and damp or be unrelentingly hot with no rain, seriously challenging your ability to grow plants that resemble the model specimens you see in gardening books or online. When this happens, try to be patient and retain a sense of humor about the situation. Just remember two truths: ‘you can’t beat Mother Nature’ and for those in the northern half of the country, if you don’t like the weather, wait a minute and it will change’. And, be thankful that more often than not, summer is glorious, even if it is way too short.

With any new occupation or hobby, there’s always a lot to learn, oftentimes including new lingo—which can be intimidating, for sure. The world of gardening is no different. The planting instructions listed the back of your seed packets, for example, can almost seem like a foreign language at first, making the whole process feel much more complicated than it actually is. One common phrase is particularly daunting: ‘plant in well-drained soil’. It’s obviously really important. But what does it mean and how do you do it? We will explain. Growing Plants From Seed: a Quick Tutorial If you’re interested in learning how to grow vegetables, the process of growing plants from seed is simple, in concept. You plant the seed in a growing medium (which, for purposes of this post, we’ll say is soil) and add some water which will stimulate the seed to germinate or sprout, assuming the soil temperature is in right range. A seed’s initial growth is driven by respiration which is fueled by water and air held in the soil. If the soil contains too much of either—as a result of over- or under-watering – the seed can’t germinate. Under the right conditions, as a plant germinates from seed, the tiny root previously stored within the seed grows downward in the soil serving as an anchor root. This root enables the sprout to start absorbing water and nutrients from the soil, which, in turn, drives the emergence and growth of the seedling above ground. As the seedling grows, it puts down more roots and the cycle continues. In reality, problems can occur if the soil doesn’t serve as a hospitable medium for growing veggies, either because it lacks appropriate moisture or because it doesn’t provide the nutrients the plant needs to grow. This can happen if the nature of the soil renders it unable to hold and exchange nutrients with the plant. THIS is where the concept of ‘enriched, well-drained soil’ comes into play. Soil that is too dense to allow unimpeded passage of water, nutrients, organisms—and roots—won’t properly support varied plant life. But soil that’s not dense enough to hold water and nutrients is also not conducive for growing plants either. So, the question is what is the nature of YOUR garden soil and what amendments, if any, do you need to make? What is Soil Made of? If you’re wondering how to grow vegetables, it’s important to understand the composition of soil. Soil is composed of three elements: minerals, decaying organic material, and living organisms. The minerals are a mixture of sand, silt, and clay that come from the ongoing, millenia-old breakdown of the solid rock that layers the Earth. The decaying, organic material consists of leaves and plant remains; the living organisms include fungi, nematodes, earthworms, ants, moles, etc. The proportions and chemical makeup of these soil elements vary enormously from region to region, resulting in soil textures that range from fine sand to heavy clay. Neither of those extremes is ideal for growing veggies; most plants do best in soil that’s a balanced mix: 40 percent sand, 40 percent silt, and 20 percent clay. A well-balanced soil blend is often referred to as loam. How to Determine Your Soil Type With dampened soil, grab a handful and rub it between your fingers: if it feels gritty, that means it’s sandy; if it feels slimy, it’s clay. Another method is to take that handful of soil and roll it into a ribbon in your hands, just like you used to do with modeling clay in kindergarten: if you can dangle the ribbon vertically without it breaking, that means your soil is mostly heavy clay. If it forms into a ribbon but breaks when you dangle it, it’s probably only partially clay. If you simply can’t roll it into a ribbon, it’s probably mostly sandy soil. Best Soil Qualities for Plants Even if they manage to germinate, most plants suffer and die when their roots are subjected to wet, soggy conditions. This is one of the problems with heavy, clay soil: because it is so dense, it doesn’t allow for easy water drainage. Clay soil also gets compacted easily—when trampled by people, animals, or machines—which just makes matters worse. At the other end of the spectrum, sandy soil has a lot of air particles between its grains of sand, which allows water to drain through it easily, which should, theoretically, make it conducive to growing plants. But, in reality, sandy soils don’t retain nutrients and can dry out too quickly, which means they’re less than ideal for plant growth, as well. So if your soil is either too sandy or has too much clay, you need to fix it. Bringing Your Soil up to Par To make your sandy soil more absorbent, add organic matter such as compost, straw, shredded wood bark, etc. The coarser the material, the slower it will break down, which is what you’re aiming for. By contrast, clay soil needs much lighter organic material worked into it, such as compost, sand, rock dust, or peat moss—and a lot of it. This must be a continual process over time, in order to effectively improve the soil texture and quality for the long run. Ideally, you would amend your clay soil for growing veggies in the fall, thus avoiding wet, spring conditions which makes the process more difficult. In either case, sandy or clay, soil can also be improved through the use of organic mulch such as coarsely-shredded wood or wood chips. Also, depending on your region and climate, you may also want to consider planting winter cover crops to contribute additional organic material to the soil. By the way, if you’re wondering how to grow vegetables from seed, you don’t need to add fertilizer until after the seedlings’ ‘true leaves’ appear. We will address this topic in a future post. In the meantime, we hope we’ve elucidated the concept of well-drained soil and it’s one less bit of lingo to puzzle over. Happy planting.

Northern Edition (Zones 4-6) Even if you live in the northern part of the country where summers are relatively short, you can maximize the growing season yield by planting staggered vegetable crops if you understand how to do it. We provide some helpful tips below. For the rest of you who live in warmer regions (zones 7-10), you can plan your crops so you can have fresh produce most of the year! We have some tips for you too, in the Southern Edition of this post. Growing Cool Weather Crops in Spring For starters, if you are partial to oh-so-nutritious leafy greens, they are among the easiest crops to grow and can be started from seed indoors in late winter and transplanted outdoors in early spring, even when there’s still a possibility of a light frost. You can also direct sow them outdoors when your soil reaches the optimal temperature of 65-75° F. These greens include lettuce, endive, kale, spinach, chard, cabbage, mustard greens, and arugula. Plant a few seeds of each at a time in batches about 10 days apart, on a staggered basis, ensuring you will have delicious supply on hand starting in late spring/early summer. Other good cool weather crops you can start in early spring include peas and broccoli. As easy as these vegetables are to grow in the cool weather, things can get a little tricky when the full heat of summer arrives in earnest. Come, say, late June/early July, it’s time to plant some new vegetables to replace some of these cool weather plants, particularly the leafy greens, like lettuce and arugula, that are prone to bolting. Bolting in Plants — Explained Bolting is when cool weather leafy crops become stressed by mid-summer heat and devote all their energy to setting seed. This is the stage when these plants go from being leaf-based to flowering. During this time, heretofore sweet, leafy, refreshing greens become tough, bitter and unappetizing—at least to humans. While you could leave the bolted leafy greens as is to benefit pollinators, those of you with limited space will want to pull them up to make room for another crop. Besides, you probably have plenty of flowers on hand for pollinators, right? Vegetable Crop Rotation in Mid-Summer for a Fall Harvest What to Plant in June or July Northerners will want to choose heat-loving vegetables that grow relatively quickly to ensure they have enough time to mature before the first fall frost. Good choices include the following: Beans Beets Evergreen Bunching Onions (aka scallions) Cabbage Collard Greens Corn Cucumbers Mustard Greens June is also a good time to plant herb seeds, such as basil, as well, if you haven’t done so already. What to Plant in Late Summer Late summer (end of July until late August, depending on your region) is the time to plant a new crop of cool weather vegetables to enjoy through the fall and beyond. If it remains really hot where you live at that time, for best results, you should try to cool down the soil to facilitate germination. You can do this by shading the planting area and keeping it moist for a few days before planting. Or, you can start the seeds indoors and transplant them outdoors when it starts to cool down a bit. Here are some good choices for late summer planting: Carrots Cauliflower Broccoli Radishes Peas Lettuce and Spinach As fall progresses, be prepared to protect these late-season planted crops from frost with row covers. As mentioned above, most leafy greens can tolerate light frosts, and some of the other vegetables listed above can even tolerate air temperatures well below freezing, but you’re better safe than sorry. Gardeners are passionate about maximizing their homegrown vegetable crops so they can stave off the necessity of buying supermarket vegetables as long as possible. Staggered or succession planting is not hard to do with a bit of planning and is the best way to prolong your growing season, in the absence of, say, a greenhouse (more on that).

You can go about creating new garden beds any time of year as long as the ground isn’t frozen or too wet. The most obvious time to do this is in the fall or early spring to get ready for spring planting. As you ponder the design of your garden, consider creating raised garden beds as they have a number of advantages over ground level beds. While building raised beds requires some extra effort, there will be a payoff in terms of eased maintenance and a potentially more bountiful harvest. Why Build a Raised Garden Bed? Most vegetable plants are not hard to grow as long as you take care to meet all the plants’ needs. This includes plenty of direct sunlight; warm, circulating air; just the right amount of water; and rich, well-drained soil containing the essential nutrients for your particular crops. Unlike other types of plants, such as common varieties of flowers, for example, many vegetable plants are unforgiving and won’t thrive in marginal growing conditions. Well-Drained Soil While you can’t control the weather, you can increase your chances of success by siting the garden in a favorable, sunny spot and creating a raised bed to provide a superior growing ecosystem. An important function of a raised bed is that it allows water to be absorbed into the soil, with any excess able to drain away. That means water is unlikely to accumulate around the plants’ roots, causing them to rot. Standing water is a common problem with ground level beds, especially where the soil is made up of heavy clay and/or it rains a lot. Enriched, Custom Soil Mix Another important function of a raised bed, related to the above, is that it provides an opportunity to create a custom soil mix containing just the right proportions of compost, screened topsoil and any other amendments appropriate for your plants and climate. For example, if you live in an arid part of the country, you’ll want to create a heavier soil mix designed to retain moisture—and vice versa in a wet climate. You can also amend the soil mix to adjust its pH to your planned crop(s). And, given that the soil is contained within the bed walls, the possibility of erosion is eliminated. Given the raised bed’s position off the cold ground, a nice side effect is that the soil warms up more quickly in the spring and stays warmer longer in the fall, effectively extending your growing season. Many vegetable seeds germinate only when the soil temperature is above 70° Fahrenheit, which may only be achievable in early spring by use of a raised bed. Ease of Planting, Mulching, Weeding and Pest Management Raised beds are also user-friendly! Obviously, they make it easier to plant, weed, and mulch because they’re easier to reach. But, they also result in fewer weeds since they can’t easily encroach from the surrounding lawn the way they can on a ground-level bed. Similarly, they make it harder for certain pests, such as slugs and snails, to reach your crops. Raised Bed Garden Design Considerations While a raised garden beds can be any size or shape, there are practical considerations to their layout: you should be able to easily tend to your plants from either side of the bed. For this reason, 4 feet is a common width. Length, of course, can vary, but 8 feet is also common. And, if you have the space, you can create multiple beds to grow more crops. The depth of the raised bed is of paramount importance in order to give your plants’ roots the space to grow. Depending on your crop selection, the bed should be at least 8 inches deep; 12 inches would be ideal. But, keep in mind, the deeper your raised bed, the more soil you need to fill it. By the way, it’s a good idea to break up, loosen and weed the soil underneath before you put the raised bed to reduce competition from weeds growing up from below. Laying down a base of weed-suppressing landscape fabric provides additional insurance. As for your plants’ layout within the garden, there are some other practical considerations. For example, it’s advisable to plant taller plants on the north side of the garden so they won’t block sunlight from reaching the smaller plants. Similarly, if you’re planting a crop that requires trellising or support, such as beans or tomatoes, it would be better to place them north of lower-profile crops. On the other hand, if you’re planting cool-loving leafy greens such as lettuce, spinach or chard, you might want to strategically place taller plants such as corn on their southside to block scorching late afternoon summer sun. Easy Raised Garden Bed Ideas There is a variety of material you can use to create raised garden beds; a quick look online will confirm that gardeners have come up with a number of creative ideas. Of course, the most obvious solution may be to use rot-resistant lumber boards joined together with screws or bolts. But other common materials such as cinder blocks, bricks, logs, and large rocks can work as well. Use your imagination! But remember, whatever material you use should be long-lasting and safe.You don’t want to use anything that might leach dangerous chemicals into the soil that could be absorbed by your crops. To fend off ravenous animal pests, you may want to incorporate some protective fencing into the garden bed’s design. To keep out burrowing critters such as moles and gophers, raised beds should be constructed with a bottom layer of wire mesh netting material. To protect your crops from birds and insects you can easily attach some PVC pipe ‘hoops’ to your raised garden bed walls as a framework for netting. You can use this same framework with clear plastic sheeting, to turn the bed into a cool weather ‘hoop house’ in order to extend your growing season.

Just because you live in an apartment or other space that doesn’t have a yard, it doesn’t mean you can’t grow your own outdoor summer flowers, herbs or vegetables. It just means you need to be a bit creative in how you go about doing it, particularly if you’re in a congested urban environment, like New York City, for example. If you live near a community garden with available space, that may be an easy solution, especially if you are also seeking camaraderie from fellow gardeners. Otherwise, you need to consider container gardening in or proximate to your living space. Don’t let the fact that you may be new to the world of gardening scare you. Anybody can grow just about anything, armed with a little knowledge and confidence. And while full sunlight is crucial for many plants, though there are some beautiful shade-loving varieties you can grow instead. However, what’s not optional is water; plants need water, though there are self-watering containers available which can ease the burden on those with busy schedules. So, how to get started? Following are few pointers. Where to Grow the Garden? Before you can decide what to grow, you need to figure out what space and conditions you have available for that purpose. Possibilities include: Terrace or porch Fire escape Windows that support flower boxes. Roof top Walkway/alleyway Outside wall space If you have multiple options, it makes sense to choose the sunniest spot to maximize your plant possibilities. Please be aware that exposed, windy locations are not ideal. What do you Want to Grow? Next, what do you want to grow in the space available? Here are a few examples of favorite plants that are easy to grow in pots—sorted by different light conditions. Bear in mind there are thousands of plants from which to choose, depending on where you live, so you should do your own research and due diligence to learn more. If possible, you may also want to consider flowering plants that attract pollinators important to our environment. Full Sun (more than 6 hours/day) Herbs: Basil, rosemary, cilantro, thyme, oregano, dill, sage Veggies & Fruit: Tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, spinach, cucumbers, radishes, kale Annual Flowers: Geraniums, daisies, marigolds, sunflowers, blanket flowers, zinnias, asters Note: “Cool weather” leafy plants such as lettuce, arugula and chard can be grown in an area that doesn’t quite get full sun. Lettuce prefers coolish temperatures and grows best in spring and fall. Partial Sun (3-4 hours/day) Herbs: Parsley, mint, chives Veggies & Fruits: Blueberries, alpine strawberries, Annual Flowers: Nasturtiums, snapdragons, forget-me-not, baby blue eyes, bachelor’s buttons Full Shade Colorful Plants & Flowers: Coleus, hydrangea, ivy, fuchsia Whatever venue and plants you choose, we recommend starting out small at first so you have a manageable inventory of plants to care for, increasing your chances for success. In addition, you should take notes and snap photos so you can learn from your mistakes and build on your knowledge next spring. One thing you might want to consider is planting a succession of early, mid and late season “crops”, thereby ensuring a pleasing steady harvest schedule. Check out our popular herb and vegetable collections for additional ideas. Choosing Containers for Plants You’re undoubtedly familiar with the ubiquitous terra cotta planters you see everywhere and might be tempted to use them yourself. While we agree they’re certainly attractive, we think there are better, choices which won’t dry out as quickly and aren’t as heavy. Containers made out of wood are also attractive and don’t dry out like terra cotta, but they are relatively heavy as well and don’t last over time. A good alternative is recycled plastic containers designed to look like ceramic or fabric pots. It should go without saying that the container should have drainage holes in the bottom and should have an appropriately sized saucer underneath to retain and return excess water. As mentioned earlier in this piece, there are self-watering container systems available which make a lot of sense, particularly for people with erratic schedules. Using them, not only do you ensure your plants’ roots get consistent moisture, you can avoid overwatering which can be as problematic as letting plants dry out. Depending on what plants you have decided to grow, the size and shape of your containers is very important. Vegetables require larger, deeper containers; herbs can be planted in smaller containers. Lettuce is very shallow-rooted so it would be best in a shallow, broad container. The bigger the better, is our recommendation, depending on your space limitations. Instructions printed on your seed packets provide information on the plants’ space requirements. It’s a fun—and helpful way to discourage pests in some cases—to mix plants together, but make sure you do your homework first. For example, you can plant basil in with your tomatoes to repel flies and mosquitoes. Any herbs work well to protect lettuce as well. Some veggies don’t go well together, however, such as carrots and fennel. Potting Soil & Fertilizer For best results, use a commercial organic potting mix designed to retain moisture, with a some compost mixed in. You will also need to add some fertilizer at planting time; we recommend a granular, all purpose organic formulation. From there on out, the plants will benefit from weekly feedings with a water soluble fertilizer. Remember, planting in containers is different than planting in soil that has been enriched by native organic material and organisms; you are the sole supplier of necessary nutrients to the container. Container Gardening: Pleasing Payoff Container gardening sounds cool and looks cool when you see or hear about other people doing it. And, once you have planted a few containers of your own, you will realize that it IS cool—and very gratifying. The feeling of being able to grow some of your own food is hard to put in words—maybe because it touches some primal urge, or at least elicits a measure of indescribable pride.

With few exceptions, most living organisms on earth have evolved to depend on one another, and that includes plants. This co-dependence is not only critical for their survival—whether for sustenance or protection—but, in some cases, enables them to thrive. Companion planting embodies this principle: it’s a gardening technique whereby you purposefully plant particular species together for their mutual benefit. The benefits may include protection from the elements, defense against pests, enhanced growth and—or in the case of vegetables—enhanced flavor and yield. Another reason to do it is for aesthetics: some companion plants simply look good together. Three Sisters Planting Native Americans knew all about companion planting: their three main crops—corn, beans, and squash, otherwise known as the Three Sisters—represented an effective implementation of companion planting, an agricultural and culinary tradition that endures today. The tall corn stalks provide support for the beans to climb, the beans fix nitrogen in the soil, returning an important nutrient to the soil for use by the corn and squash. The fast-growing squash vines with their large leaves spreading on the ground shade the soil (much like mulch), retaining moisture and preventing weeds. The Three Sisters crops also complement each other from a nutritional standpoint. Dried beans are rich in protein; corn provides minerals and carbohydrates, and squash contains many other vitamins and minerals. The three crops together provide a complete and balanced diet. But, there are many other examples of companion planting at its best: Pest Control French marigolds are an easy, foolproof annual to add to the garden to attract beneficial insects and repel unwanted pests, which may include deer. The plants’ strong scent is a deterrent traveling through the air, and they emit a compound that battles nematodes in the soil Nasturtium and radishes lure aphids and other insect pests away from plants such as cucumbers. Carrots, dill, and parsley attract beneficial insects that feed on other insect pests. Catnip attracts flea beetles away from eggplant. Catnip and sage also protect broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, turnip and radish from cabbage moths. Basil (and dill) helps tomatoes by repelling devastating hornworms. Chives repel aphids. Chives, bee balm, and mint improve the flavor of tomatoes. Mint also protects plants from ants. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Thyme repels cabbage worm which is a threat to a number of plants including broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, collard, kale, and kohlrabi. Onions help carrots by controlling some nematodes and rust flies, but shouldn’t be planted with beans and peas because they might stunt their growth. Zinnias attract ladybugs which ward off a number of insect pests Additional Companion Plants’ Benefits Peas, similar to beans, fix nitrogen in the soil, critical for growth of vegetables such as lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbages, and corn and squash as described above. Sunflowers provide shade to cucumbers growing at their base; the cucumber vines and leaves shade the soil. Similarly, tall corn stalks provide shade protection from the hot afternoon summer sun to cool weather leafy greens such as spinach, arugula and Swiss chard. Other Companion Planting Tips   Sweet alyssum paired with lettuce.   Judicious companion planting also conserves space: sow quick growing, cool weather vegetable crops, such as lettuce and radishes, among melons and winter squash. In that way, you can harvest the early maturing vegetables in time to make room for the spreading vines of those other crops. And, as mentioned above, the right companion plants can help you conserve water by keeping the soil moist. Garden layout is important. Don’t plant a large patch of a single vegetable: that’s a flashing invitation to insect pests. In addition, try to plant plants that require different nutrients so they’re not all competing for the same resources. For best results, mix in flowers and herbs with your vegetables to confuse pests. Strong-smelling flowers such as marigolds serve to mask the scent of insect pests’ favorite targets. What Not to Plant Together (‘Plant Combatants’) There are some plants that shouldn’t be planted together, either because they compete for the same nutrients, they attract destructive pests or they emit a chemical that is harmful to other plants. Also, be careful not to group plants together that are wildly divergent heights because the tall ones will steal the smaller ones’ sunlight (unless, of course, that’s what you mean to do to, say, protect cool weather leafy greens). If you have limited space and have to plant different height plants together, be sure to plant the shorter ones to the south of the taller ones. Here are some examples of plant combatants: Onions with peas and beans Beans and sunflowers Cabbage and cauliflower Pole beans and beets: they stunt each other’s growth. Dill retards carrots’ growth Kohlrabi and tomatoes stunt each other’s growth. Though the concept of companion planting may seem confusing and a lot to remember at first, as you spend more and more time in the garden, you’ll soon learn what works for you. Often, the ability of companion plants to thrive (or not) together has to do with your microclimate and your particular soil. And, sometimes, you’ll discover some surprises. For example, some weeds actually help garden plants by bringing nutrients from deep in the soil to the surface, making them accessible to your plants. That’s the amazing thing about gardening: every day is an adventure.